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In Austria, Destinations, Europe on
December 13, 2012

Southern Belle On Skis

I don’t know a single Southerner who grew up on skis. In fact, I can only name two Southern folks who claim to participate in any type of outdoor winter sport be it skating, hockey, skiing, snowboarding or that weird Olympic sport were you push a rock around on ice. The south has two professional hockey teams (in Nashville and Atlanta) and I’m willing to bet all the players come from outside the south. When it’s cold in the south, we just prefer to stay in doors. But for some reason, when passing by a ski shop while on a holiday gift shopping excursion prompted my best buddy to ask, “Do you want to go skiing tomorrow?” I said yes.

Everyone in Europe seems to be a skier or snowboarder so such a question is commonplace in Stuttgart.  The Austrian and Swiss Alps are two driving hours away so spur of the moment ski trips happen all winter. Back home, skiing is quite a planning undertaking which requires plane tickets, requested time off from work, and hotel reservations. My family talked about skiing at Paoli Peaks one winter. That’s about as far as it went. So here I am, closer to turning 30 than I am 20 and I am making decisive measures to strap on skis for the first time in my life.

Getting the Gear
According to my avid skier beau, who grew up skiing in Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado, nothing can ruin a great ski day faster than being improperly dressed.  So we stepped into the discount ski shop to buy pants and a jacket. It was then that I learned that maybe I hated the snow so much because I just haven’t been properly taught to stay warm.  I was reared by a Kentucky mama and an Alabama daddy so when it snowed we hunkered down and rode out the treacherous storm in the house by the fire place or kerosene heaters! If we did venture out, my parents would have my sister and I wearing so many layers of clothes that we waddled like the Michelin man and our limbs stood out away from our bodies like a gingerbread man cookie.

Amazing after centuries of inhabiting inclement weather regions, humans have unlocked the mystery of o the art and science of staying warm and dry in the snow.  I never knew such a thing was possible! And get this… it can be done in only need three layers!

1. Do long johns (thermal) or under armor for your first layer.
2. Next do an over layer like a turtle neck, sweater, or sweatshirt.
3. Your final layer includes your water proof ski pants and ski jacket.
Viola! You’ll stay warm and you can still move around.

Tips: If you get wet, head to the lodge because you have no chance of staying warm. You don’t want to wear jeans either. They allow you to get wet and restrict you from movement. I never guessed you could also get hot while skiing. Skiing is a work out, you can sweat so you need to be able to open and vent your ski pants or jacket.

Thin socks are a Godsend. Your ski boots will keep you warm enough. If you layer socks or wear think wool ones you risk cutting off circulation and getting cold.  You’ve got to be able to wriggle your toes. Some ski socks come with padding on the shins to protect you while you lean against the boots.   Ski gloves, goggles, face mask to keep your cheeks and chin warm on cold windy days.  Just like when you ride a bike, wear a helmet! This can save your life no matter how good you get.

So, after mixing and matching colorful pants with different jackets I settled on the first jacket I tried on, a bright, sunny one with white pants.  This unplanned purchase was justified by my lack of winter clothing and their versatility of being able to wear them off the slopes.

Getting to the Slopes

So Sunday rolled around and we journeyed two hours south to Oberjoch for my first go on skies ever. The ride to Oberjoch was one I had made several times in the summer but it was absolutely gorgeous with snow gracing the evergreens and mountains.  The GPS claimed we were at our destination at the bottom of the mountain but we had to continue up the curvy roads to the resort.  In The States, ski resorts are all inclusive where you can lodge, buy your lift tickets, and rent your gear all in one place. Not so in Germany.  There’s a company that rents ski gear, then another company that owns lifts, and you have to find your own hotel and restaurant.  We’d come one week too early for the season opening. No lessons were available at the ski school.  There were no lifts, most of the runs were not open, but amazingly, the mountains were active and I was eager to add to the activity. Expectation Management 

While I was being strapped in my boots by the ski rental employee, I watched this adorable little tot who couldn’t have been any older than three years and whose parents were calling her Cassandra, pick up her mini skis and toss them over her shoulder and strut out the door like a pro.  We handed the Kasse (Cashier) 18 euros to rent the skis, poles, and a helmet and headed out behind little Cassie.  If this little tot could confidently go onto the slopes I was sure I could do the same. To me, being an adult on the bunny hill is about as ego bruising as having to play “Twinkle twinkle” as an adult at piano recital. I’d rather skip the right hand only songs and jump straight to Chopin’s Opus 64 No.1 “Petit Chien” or, in ski terms, skip the bunny hill and head straight toward the Black Diamond run. I envision myself as a super woman who, with a little time, can conquer anything.  I realized as soon as I put my skis on that that goal was a serious optimism.  Probably the most humbling of experiences. Skiing encouraged expectation management. Let me tell you what you can expect within your first 15 minutes on the runs:

  • You will not be skipping the bunny hill.
  • Even tough, coordinated, athletic Belles will fall down. A lot.
  • It takes a lot of energy to get up. It’s worse than falling in ice skates.
  • Six-year-olds will show off cool karate kicks in their skies while you are still trying to get off the ground.
  • You will be embarrassed, frustrated, leaning toward self doubt and start thinking skiing is a terrible lame sport that you will never get into.
  • You only have two speeds as a beginner, “too slow” and “too fast.”
  • Good news is, it doesn’t take long to get straightened out and gain confidence. Just like riding a bike, you’ll fall off a few times but soon you’ll be riding with no hands!

How to Have a Good First Ski Experience
I was fortunate to have an expert skier as a friend willing to give me private, focused lessons. And fortunate that most slopes were closed so he had no choice but to pay attention to me rather than running off to the Black Diamond runs. A patient, free instructor who doesn’t take it for granted that you know anything is a plus. Make sure you are appropriately dressed because skiing is no fun when you’re miserable.

First, I had to learn the most basic of the basics: how to snap in and out of the skis and walk in the boots.  Then it was just being able to stand up on flat ground that became a challenge. It’s like when you first learn to drive a stick shift, you become very aware when the ground is not flat because you’ll roll backward. Same of the skis. Every little incline, inclines your mind wouldn’t readily notice, I was sliding— sometimes backward, or sideways.  Then after a seminar about keeping my skies parallel like French fries to move fast and turned in like a pizza wedge to slow down I took my first downhill adventure. It went a little something like this:
BFF: French Fry!
Me: I’m doin’ it! I’m doin’ it!
BFF: Good!
Me: Whooa, Whoa! Too fast! Too Fast!
BFF: You’re not going to fast
Me: Too fast!
BFF: Pizza wedge! Pizza Wedge!
Me: Ahhh!
Crash! I hurl myself into a pile of snow to slow myself down as a German two year-old bundled up in a florescent striped onesie parka waves at me as she slides by on a pink toboggan sled.

 

This went on for a few more times.  It was frustrating. It was then that I thought to myself, I don’t foresee myself ever being good at this sport and no one likes something they’re not good at.  I spent time accidentally sliding backwards, accidentally skiing up hill, and learning that trying to get up after falling takes a lot of energy.  I started to resent the preteens that whizzed past doing kung fu moves in the air and landing on their feet and envied the toddlers who made it all the way down a slope on their parent’s leash. One little girl in particular was fussing in German at her parents who held on to a leash behind her.  I imagined she was saying, “I can do it all by myself!”

 

A kind German man offered his words of encouragement to me, “Next week you’ll be up there” he pointed up the mountains. He explained how he was just like me five years ago.  That was encouraging and I appreciated his words (I should have let him know that).  Everyone starts at the bottom.  Even Jimi Hendrix sounded like a hopeless child when he started playing the guitar. The challenge of gliding down steep mountains like a pro seemed overwhelming but even pros started on the bunny hill. In the future there will be powder, bumps, and steep drops but for now, I just need to learn how to maintain control of myself on skies. I also realized that without the ski lifts running, I needed to learn to conserve energy.  Being physically fit is important because this sport is deceivingly active.  It looks so simple.  Having to march back up snowy hills kinda detracted from the incentive of going down.

Toward the end of the day I slowly gained more confidence and control and skiing slowly became more fun.  I could stop when I wanted to and turn the direction I wanted. I certainly don’t foresee skiing becoming popular among southern folks any time soon but I will be returning to the slopes this weekend with a professional instructor and with operational ski lifts for round two of Southern Belle’s skiing adventures! Tell you more about it later! Tschüss!

 

 

 

 
In Austria, Destinations, Europe on
October 13, 2012

Partying ‘Til The Cows Come Home

Mayrhofen im Zillertal Almabtriebfest

As the trees adorn their branches with classic fall hues, thousands of visitors flock to one little Bavarian town or another signaling the time that the cows come home!  I know watching cows come home from the mountain sounds pretty hokie, a little backwoods even. However, in Mayrhofen, Austria, cows walking down from the Alps make a pretty valid reason to throw a big street party.

During the summer, farmers send their cattle to graze in the alpine meadows. When the leaves start to change, farmers drive their cattle, dressed in show-girl style headdress, garlands, and clanging bells down to the valley where they return home, stopping to rest at various pastures on the way.

Almabtrieb (Alm-ubtreeb) or Viehscheid (Vee-shide) fests are what American southern girls recognize as a cattle drive festival.   Thousands of visitors come to the cattle drive every year, and celebrate German style with traditional, accordion-lased mountain music, dancing, beer tents and more modern bands wooing crowds live!  It goes on most of September and through October (depending on the weather). It’s a great family activity, fun for friends, a place to for fantastic photos of German culture, or just have some fun.

Mayrhofen is a little mountain town right across the border in Austria with no major tourist attractions aside from its nature and slopes that are perfect for skiing. The Alps are a devastating beauty that takes my breath away and replaces it with clear fresh air every time I’m amongst them.  I can understand Marie spinning around and singing praises of sounds of the Mountains even more having been inspired to run, skip, sing, and prance myself.

Mayrhofen’s Almabtreibfest had this Kentucky country girl taking photos of cows!  Never, in all my years in Kentucky or Alabama, have I ever photographed a cow until I moved to Germany.   Just makes me think that my little Kentucky town, with all its cows, should certainly incorporate a cattle drive into our fall festivals.  The town of Obertsdorf in Germany has a larger cattle drive, (totaling over 1000 animals) is well down into the Allgäu region (the low mountainous area before the Alps) and is about 2.5 hours from Stuttgart. Some Cattle drive fests are much closer.

My experience with Almabtreibeibfest actually started in Munich for Oktoberfest. I couldn’t convince my party friends to make the hour and a half journey south to Austria to watch this cultural event. But just like Oktoberfest, Almabtriebfest is just one of those events that you must experience at least once if you live in Germany.
Activities start early in the day like 0930.   You’ll want to be dressed in your native German attire (dirndl and Liderhosen). If you don’t have it, shops will be open. The shops in the Bavarian Alps have a much wider variety of cute, authentic accessories for your native attire than places in Stuttgart. It’s easy to blow 400 euro.  Be sure to check out my buying guide before you go.Sip your cappuccino and have some strudel drenched in vanilla cream in one of the lesser populated coffee shops and watch the first few parades of cows go by. As the day warms up, shop, walk up and down the streets, dance to the accordion mountain music, buy from the local venders, watch out for the drool, blood, and poop in the road. When you stop in a little restaurant for lunch, try the putenschnitzle.  Coming from the Shwabish area, where every meal includes pork, I had never had jager puten schnitzel until I traveled Bavaria.  It’s healthier and delish!  Spend the afternoon taking the train to the top of the mountains or gliding through the mountains.  Better do this before 4 pm.  As the sun starts to set…and it’ll set early these days… it’s time to check into a quaint little gasthaus for the night. The cows will be finished with their parade but the party is just getting started.  I actually went back to Munich for the Oktoberfest but, if that’s not on your to-do list,  I suggest staying in Mayrhofen or moving on to another charming Alpine town like Innsbruck or Fussen for the night.

 

When I returned to Stuttgart this Cattle drive is all people were raving about.