If only someone was taking photos of my expressions there would have been photo booth images of roll my eyes, OMG, holy smack! What did I just put in my mouth? Mmm… good surprise written all over my face. The food was the uncontested highlight of my time spent in Bilbao, Spain.
Before leaving home, a google search for “gastronomie” lead me to the resturuant, Nerua in the Guggenheim Bilbao Museum. So, I booked a late lunch reservation on line at the recipient of the coveted Michelin star distinction two hours after my plane was due to touch down. I entered the restaurant from the outside of the museum on the Spider statue side and wind up directly in the kitchen of the restaurant.
I gave the deer-in-the-headlights look when the kitchen staff all paused and greeted me with “Buenos Dias!” I instantly thought I must have entered somewhere where I shouldn’t be. I backed out of the door but was collected by a server and shown to my table. There was only me and one other table occupied so I received individualized service. It was fantastic. I was catered to like Belle in Beauty and the Beast. The special care I was given let it be known, gave way that this was going to be quite the culinary experience like no other.
Meanwhile, as bread and wine was brought out, I took on the role as food paparazzi. Noticing me taking constant photos, the staff asked if I wanted to take a seat in the kitchen.
I chose the meal option with eight courses over the six, with the chef’s wine selection for every course. The courses just kept getting better. I didn’t even know what I was eating half the time so my mind couldn’t predict what it should taste like ahead of time. Sometimes I was expecting cold, sweet, citrus, but what I got was warm spicy, hearty sweet. Surprise stayed written all over my face. I had 11 individuals working regimentally and in silence on my one meal!
Now I don’t have all the hoity-toity, fancy food critic words to describe each bite. In fact, I was almost tempted to watch Disney’s Ratatouille for inspiration. All I can tell you is this food was divine and the overall experience well worth all I paid. So instead of me trying to explain to you the glory that danced on my taste buds, please take a stroll through my photo essay on my culinary experience:
Dropping local fish skin in hot grease
Sprinkling seasonings
tasty, crunchy flavorful appetizer.
This is Adrian from Argentina. He’s a kitchen leader.
Red miso with warm navy bean broth. Mmmm
The navy bean broth in a jar.
Diligent with his attention to detail.
I have no idea how something that looks like this should taste. What a surprise to my taste buds!
Savory: white turnip, nutmeg, Iberian pork. If my parents made turnips tast like this it would have been my favorite vegetable.
Something this mouthwatering takes teamwork.
Oyster barrage, chive, citronella grass broth
White prawns, barley soup, spinach & whiskey
It takes three guys to make one dish just for me.
Artichokes, Iberian pork delicacies in green coffee extract
Then I had a choice between Foie Gras and Fried Hake. I took the Hake.
My wine pairing.
Would you guess this was warm, sweet and spicy? It’s caramelized persimmon with cinimon and lime.
A different wines and a Spanish beer with each course.
Why yes, I do need two desserts. Pure chocolate & spicy marzipan.
After the meal, I shot the breeze with Adrian, the Argentinian cutie, who translated for the Master Chef. I expressed how impressed I was that young people created such a meal. Everyone in the kitchen with the exception of the head chef was under 30 years old. The were from all over the world but mostly spoke Spanish with one another. My personalized meal started at 2pm. The team was going to take a hike in the distant mountains before returning to cook at 7 pm. I told them about my five-year-old sobrina who wants to be a cook. “Maybe when she is seven she can come work for us,” The head chef joked in Spanish and Adrien translated.
I expressed how it seemed as though they really cared. They must love me if they take the time to have five cooks using little tweezer-like utensils to perfectly arrange little balls of miso in bean broth or just to chat with me afterwards. This was their life’s passion that they shared with me. This team wanted to make sure I had good food to eat. I witnessed no yelling or ego or tempers existed like on the television shows, Top Chef or Hell’s Kitchen. No boxed mac ‘n cheese or mashed potatoes. No microwaves. No prepackaged food. No food cooked last week. No good enough. No secrets. No drama. Just plain fabulous. Superb. Fantastical.
All done. Kitchen is spotless again.
As the staff started cleaning after being open to serve me and me alone, I reflected on all that I had just experienced. So this is gastronomy; cooking with love. Putting your heart, soul, and passion into meals. It was t that moment it donned on me: I was introduced to gastronomy a long time ago by my Grandma Nellie. Although this was my first time dropping some $300 on a meal, this was not my first gastronomic experience. The meals seeped in love offered at my grandma’s gave the same experience.
When I was a little belle, I used to spend the summers with both of my grandmothers. Days at my mother’s mama’s house revolved around meals. Whatever I wanted for breakfast she always had in stock or would get for me. She is that awesome. I remember asking for doughnuts and low and behold she had them. Bacon and biscuits, she break it out for me. Pancakes or waffles, she’d have it. Any cereal I could name, she’d have it for me. At home, I’d just have to make due with the one cereal we had on hand but with grandma, breakfast was made to order! I remember taking a long shot and requesting Toaster strudels which, by the way, they don’t sale in Germany, for breakfast. I saw commercials for them and thought it looked good. She happened to have coupons for them and said ok. We went to the super market that day. Since that summer that I was 8 years old, they’ve been a mainstay on her grocery list and you can count on them always being in her freezer.
Me & Grandma Nellie
For lunch I’d have a sandwich. I used to only do mayo sandwiches. It Grandma Nellie who introduced me to the concept of actually putting meat and cheese on sandwiches. I remember sitting at her table and her asking me what I wanted on my wheat bread and me listing off Mayonnaise. She complied but I think it through her off because she mentioned my choice to my aunt later on. It wasn’t long before she had be trying out deli slices. She’d cut my sandwich bread into fourths or, on particularly grown-up days, halves. Sometime in triangles, other times in squares or rectangles. I remember feeling special and anticipating what shape may sandwich would be in for the day. And I got chocolate milk. Everyday. Sometimes I’d sneak a guzzle Hershey’s chocolate syrup out of the aluminum can she always bought it in. I even got her to buy strawberry syrup for me. She was the one who introduced the addition of cheese on broccoli instantly making broccoli my favorite vegetable. In fact, all vegetables were made better by grandma: potatoes, green beans, carrots. Grandma could cook them so they were edible to the most selective pallet of the second grader.
If I was tidy, sometimes I’d get a dessert served later in the evening in green bowls full of vanilla ice cream with fresh strawberries that I could eat them in the living room while watching the news with her. And to top it all off… I got to stay up late… ‘til 11 pm. I tell ya, Grandma Nellie’s house was a child’s luxury vacation resort.
When my parents picked me up I was so excited to go home but it wasn’t long before I missed grandma’s attention to detail when cooking. I told my mom how her mama used to cut my sandwiches before serving them to me. My mom confirmed, yes, she cooks with love. This was the first time I ever understood the concept of cooking with love. Grandma Nellie must love me because she cut my sandwiches for me. She cares about the food that I put into my body. Her meals were healthy, not for me to just shovel in to keep me alive. The extra effort and care put into my meals made me know I was, without a doubt, loved by this woman.
My initial experience at Nerua transcended the resturuant and was experienced in all aspects of my Bilbao exploration. There was no settling for good enough anywhere. The attention to detail was evident in service, food, and every angle and curve of the architecture and art. Even the simple finger food appeared to be made with pride. What a fabulous example to apply to life. Whatever you do, put your passion into it. No secrets, nothing to hide. Of course, as the chefs at Nerua displayed, this doesn’t work if your work is massed produced to serve billions and billions. But to your selected few, good enough is not good enough. Put your heart and soul into your work and serve with pride.
Does the no white after Labor Day fashion rule still apply when you’re outside the States?
Canary Islands
When Americans go to the beach they go to Florida or California, maybe even the Jersey Shore, the Hamptons…Texans stay in Texas. Maybe a few adventurous souls hit the Caribbean Islands or Mexico. When Americans go to Europe they go to see old buildings — The Coliseum, The Louvre, the castles. Typical Americans do not go to Europe to go to the beach. But it’s just that typical American omission is what adds to the allure of European beaches and more specifically European islands.So embracing my new holiday traditions of traveling during breaks instead of only eating, I left Stuttgart’s frigid, gloomy weather and headed south, off the south-west coast of Morocco to Tenerife, Spain, the largest of the Canary Islands.
zip zip zipped around curvy mountain roads in a cute little fiat!
We left Stuttgart bundled up in gloves and coats and when we arrived to the islands six hours later, it was spring time again! It was cool in the evenings but warm all day. I found out that it rained for the first time all year the week before we arrived so the locals kept saying “You’re so lucky to have planned you holiday when it’s so green.” That’s where the idea of relativity comes into play. I was actually expecting a tropical oasis of green like in Mallorca but Tenerife was surprisingly very brown. The islands are closer to desert islands and also have volcanic origins which make the sand black. Aside from the year-round fabulous weather, the 3718 meter high volcano, Mount Teide, is its most popular tourist attraction. Bananas and tomato plantations along with cacti were the only green to be seen. There is one highway that will give you a three-hour tour around the entire coast of the island.
Expectation management
I didn’t know what to expect, see, or do in the Canary Islands and that was part of the adventure.
We spent our time greeting sunrises, exploring, and chasing sunsets around the islands. One evening we wanted to watch a sunset however, it fell behind Grand Canaria and we couldn’t see it drop below the horizon. I got seasick during a whale watching excursion. I learned that nude beaches are no the same as nude spas and I will never be returning to one again (ew!). We went into a building that said “Night club” hoping to dance. Turned out to be brothel – a place for activities other than dancing. There’s a Tony Romas which isn’t such a big deal unless you’re an American living in Europe without American food chains. We ended up not eating there however.
Although I usually don’t, I booked through a German travel agency who advertised a great deal. They promised a four night stay in a four star hotel with drinks and food all included, plus the flight all included for just under €400.
What we got was that the hotel was about an hour away from the airport and nearly every rental car company was sold out. I’m not sure what rating scale was used but the hotel where we stayed could in no way be described as four star. Four star holds the expectation of a degree of luxury. This includes the services provided, decor, equipment, and catering to the needs of the payee. The restaurant will demonstrate a serious approach to its cuisine. A highway-side Holiday Inn back home would put this place to shame. Blue Sea Lagos de Cesar hotel had night shift workers who slept on the lobby sofas. The rooms were clean and spacious like a small apartment but with 1980s decor. The food was cafeteria style food and was the same every day. And additionally, it was not in a very lively area… Los Santiagos. Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos among the best hot spots on the island. So we stayed in a good enough hotel for the price but not for the four star rating. I looked on trip adviser and saw the terrible ratings the hotel got. We ended up only eating there for breakfast and we did make use of the ice cream cups they offered by the pool but other than that, the “all inclusive” board was wasted.
Again, relativity kicks. The hotel was okay and good enough until we learned that friends from Stuttgart booked through the same travel company and got a better hotel (called Best Tenerife which also got similar complaints that my hotel got on tripadvisor.co.uk). They had not complaints in terms of food, location or accommodations. It is in in Los Americanas so they didn’t have to drive 30 minutes for entertainment. We did visit Abama Hotel and Spa which was undoubtedly a four star hotel and wished we would have stayed just one night there. It may have been more expensive but worth it. If I go back to Tenerife, that’s where I’ll stay. It still sits alone away from the beach, shopping and other entrainment but there’s plenty to keep you entertained right there. I know that I am incredibly blessed to be able to go to such a paradise and how dare I even complain about good enough accommodations when others do not even have homes as nice as the hotel room I stayed. i know, it’s all relative.
If you’re traveling during the off season, I’d suggest not booking a room for the whole week until you get there and can scope out where you want to be. There were also Hotels called the Princess and Emerald in the heart of Los Americanas that looked appealing.
I couldn’t help to compare the Canary islands to Spain’s other islands in the Med. The Canaries are populated by British Expats so Spanish lessons are less necessary here than it was in Mallorca. I can’t say I saw a lot of Spanish culture like Mallorca. I had to hunt for Paella. There were no major monuments no sense of history. Just beaches, resorts, and tourist traps like any other beach town. Mallorca was breathtakingly beautiful and refreshing with history, culture, and music. Tenerife is a desert tourist destination. Two million people live in the Canary Islands and the islands attract six million tourist each year. we were there during the off season and it was highly populated by viejitos (endearing senior citizens). It wasn’t the party atmosphere I was expecting and secretly hoping for and I didn’t have historical landmarks to fall back on as entertainment. When compared to Mallorca, Tenerife just doesn’t have the same allure but when judged on its own merit there is plenty to like about the Canaries. You have to like the islands for what they are and not for what they have over other similar locations. Mallorca is the Carmen to Tenerife’s candy face, Cindy Lou.
Overall, I would not dissuade anyone from going to the Islands. Tenerife is the biggest but not the best. I can’t wait to spend another winter holiday in the Canaries but next time I’ll try a different island and book without a travel agent. My beau swears by only emphasizing the best of towns to make people believe you had the most rockin’ time ever even when you didn’t. And his company and the weather was probably the bets part of the trip.
After watching a sun rise the first morning, Idaho Beau and I followed a trail of white crosses up a mountain.
I thought something scary was moving behind this wall then I realized…Puppies!
The gorgeous golf course at the resort we didn’t stay at, Abama
Cacti close up
Black volcanic sand beach
How I spent my time whale watching. 🙁
More Cacti
White skinny jeans after Labor Day
Vibrant colors in November
Why are sunrises so much softer than sunsets?
I’m fascinated with the different types of Cati in Spain.
We got all gussied up to have a nice dinner out on the last night.
Lush garden & me in My Senegal attire.
Chasing sunsets around the Island.
This statue fascinates me.
That it is
Trying to get my Victoria Secret Beach sexy on.
Abama hotel and spa
Beautiful sunset
I decided to knock out as many pullups as I could every time I walked near the fitness closet of the hotel. Got up to 3 in four days.
Gorgeous.
Me & Crash!
Paella
You always gota get a photo jumping off of things!
You can go on a pirate ship excursion to whale watch!