November 26, 2012

White After Labor Day: Thanksgiving In The Canary Islands

Does the no white after Labor Day fashion rule still apply when you’re outside the States?

Canary Islands

When Americans go to the beach they go to Florida or California, maybe even the Jersey Shore, the Hamptons…Texans stay in Texas. Maybe a few adventurous souls hit the Caribbean Islands or Mexico. When Americans go to Europe they go to see old buildings — The Coliseum, The Louvre, the castles. Typical Americans do not go to Europe to go to the beach. But it’s just that typical American omission is what adds to the allure of European beaches and more specifically European islands.So embracing my new holiday traditions of traveling during breaks instead of only eating, I left Stuttgart’s frigid, gloomy weather and headed south, off the south-west coast of Morocco to Tenerife, Spain, the largest of the Canary Islands.

zip zip zipped around curvy mountain roads in a cute little fiat!

We left Stuttgart bundled up in gloves and coats and when we arrived to the islands six hours later, it was spring time again! It was cool in the evenings but warm all day. I found out that it rained for the first time all year the week before we arrived so the locals kept saying “You’re so lucky to have planned you holiday when it’s so green.” That’s where the idea of relativity comes into play. I was actually expecting a tropical oasis of green like in Mallorca but Tenerife was surprisingly very brown. The islands are closer to desert islands and also have volcanic
origins which make the sand black. Aside from the year-round fabulous weather, the 3718 meter high volcano, Mount Teide, is its most popular tourist attraction. Bananas and tomato plantations along with cacti were the only green to be seen. There is one highway that will give you a three-hour tour around the entire coast of the island.

Expectation management

I didn’t know what to expect, see, or do in the Canary Islands and that was part of the adventure.

We spent our time greeting sunrises, exploring, and chasing sunsets around the islands. One evening we wanted to watch a sunset however, it fell behind Grand Canaria and we couldn’t see it drop below the horizon. I got seasick during a whale watching excursion. I learned that nude beaches are no the same as nude spas and I will never be returning to one again (ew!). We went into a building that said “Night club” hoping to dance. Turned out to be brothel – a place for activities other than dancing. There’s a Tony Romas which isn’t such a big deal unless you’re an American living in Europe without American food chains. We ended up not eating there however.

Although I usually don’t, I booked through a German travel agency who advertised a great deal. They promised a four night stay in a four star hotel with drinks and food all included, plus the flight all included for just under €400.

What we got was that the hotel was about an hour away from the airport and nearly every rental car company was sold out. I’m not sure what rating scale was used but the hotel where we stayed could in no way be described as four star. Four star holds the expectation of a degree of luxury. This includes the services provided, decor, equipment, and catering to the needs of the payee. The restaurant will demonstrate a serious approach to its cuisine. A highway-side Holiday Inn back home would put this place to shame. Blue Sea Lagos de Cesar hotel had night shift workers who slept on the lobby sofas. The rooms were clean and spacious like a small apartment but with 1980s decor. The food was cafeteria style food and was the same every day. And additionally, it was not in a very lively area… Los Santiagos. Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos among the best hot spots on the island.
So we stayed in a good enough hotel for the price but not for the four star rating. I looked on trip adviser and saw the terrible ratings the hotel got. We ended up only eating there for breakfast and we did make use of the ice cream cups they offered by the pool but other than that, the “all inclusive” board was wasted.

Again, relativity kicks. The hotel was okay and good enough until we learned that friends from Stuttgart booked through the same travel company and got a better hotel (called Best Tenerife which also got similar complaints that my hotel got on tripadvisor.co.uk). They had not complaints in terms of food, location or accommodations.
It is in in Los Americanas so they didn’t have to drive 30 minutes for entertainment. We did visit Abama Hotel and Spa which was undoubtedly a four star hotel and wished we would have stayed just one night there. It may have been more expensive but worth it. If I go back to Tenerife, that’s where I’ll stay. It still sits alone away from the beach, shopping and other entrainment but there’s plenty to keep you entertained right there. I know that I am incredibly blessed to be able to go to such a paradise and how dare I even complain about good enough accommodations when others do not even have homes as nice as the hotel room I stayed. i know, it’s all relative.

If you’re traveling during the off season, I’d suggest not booking a room for the whole week until you get there and can scope out where you want to be. There were also Hotels called the Princess and Emerald in the heart of Los Americanas that looked appealing.

I couldn’t help to compare the Canary islands to Spain’s other islands in the Med. The Canaries are populated by British Expats so Spanish lessons are less necessary here than it was in Mallorca. I can’t say I saw a lot of Spanish culture like Mallorca. I had to hunt for Paella. There were no major monuments no sense of history. Just beaches, resorts, and tourist traps like any other beach town. Mallorca was breathtakingly beautiful and refreshing with history, culture, and music. Tenerife is a desert tourist destination. Two million people live in the Canary Islands and the islands attract six million tourist each year. we were there during the off season and it was highly populated by viejitos (endearing senior citizens). It wasn’t the party atmosphere I was expecting and secretly hoping for and I didn’t have historical landmarks to fall back on as entertainment. When compared to Mallorca, Tenerife just doesn’t have the same allure but when judged on its own merit there is plenty to like about the Canaries. You have to like the islands for what they are and not for what they have over other similar locations. Mallorca is the Carmen to Tenerife’s candy face, Cindy Lou.

Overall, I would not dissuade anyone from going to the Islands. Tenerife is the biggest but not the best. I can’t wait to spend another winter holiday in the Canaries but next time I’ll try a different island and book without a travel agent. My beau swears by only emphasizing the best of towns to make people believe you had the most rockin’ time ever even when you didn’t. And his company and the weather was probably the bets part of the trip.