Not a single blog post or traveler who recommended this remote, rustic beach town mentioned Afro-Mexicanos when describing the Chacahua — and they were the highlight for me! Had someone mentioned this detail back in January when I arrived in Puerto Escondido, I wouldn’t have waited so long to visit.
Chacahua gives me Livingston, Guatemala (aka La Buga) vibes. Both towns are so remote they’re only accessible only by boat. The two locations have a notable population of African descendants. Livingston and Chacahua both heavily utilize palapas. However, the African descendants of Guatemala are the attraction in La Buga. You visit La Buga to experience the Afro-Guatemalans (Garifunas) and their culture. In Chacahua, it’s about the surf.
There’s nothing to do in Chacahua but surf and chill. And for some, learning how to relax is the biggest challenge. Having interesting people to chill with is what makes the chill spectacular. That’s where the locals come in.
You’re going to need to bring enough cash with you. There are no ATMs on the island, and the tiendas and super marcados charge a hefty service fee on credit cards. So how much should you bring?
Getting there (costs $500 Mexican Pesos or $30USD)
My group of four took the most luxurious route from LA Punta in Puerto Escondido— a 1-hour taxi to Zapotalito. A 45-minute boat ride directly to Chacahua.
The taxi gave us a quote for AC and a cheaper quote for without. He also mentioned that he didn’t realize four of us were going and would have charged more. There are so many variables in the cost of the ride. We also had Alejandro, a Mexican, who could negotiate the price in a familiar accent to avoid getting the tourist price. With the windows down, the four of us packed into the car. It felt like a breezy convertible.
Taxi: $1,100 (split between four people)
Direct Water Taxi Boat $200 MXP per person (we got a $100 peso discount because the boat captain was in a hurry to fill the boat and go)
Other methods include taking a collectivo 37 miles to the lagoon in Zapotalito ($50 pesos), then walking a little way to a second collectivo. Then, catch a 10-minute boat ride ($50 pesos).
Coming back, Meggie, a Mexican girl in our new group of friends, negotiated at Hotel & Restaurant Isahmar for our group, which expanded to 11. It was the same price but private. Then Meggie had an SUV and took the original 4 of us all back. We chipped in $100 pesos a piece. It pays to be social and expand your friend group.
Belle Notes:
The mangroves on the lagoon have gorgeous aquatic birds that create a magical atmosphere, like the “Kiss the girl” lagoon scene in The Little Mermaid. You’re going to want to keep your camera ready!
You’re going to want to reserve $500 MX pesos ($30) to make sure you have enough money to get off the island.
Staying ($2,600 Mexican Pesos for 2 nights)
We chose the bougiest option on the island. For $1300 MX pesos a night, we got an airconditioned room with two full beds, a private bathroom, a mini fridge, a hammock, decent wifi, and a private covered porch. For those living in Puerto Escondido, you know how luxurious this setup is. The total was $866 MXP ($51USD) split between three girls in our group (Alejandro had friends on the island to stay with. We just happened to walk upon the cabana.
Other options –
Hammock stays under a palapa for $60MPS ($3.50 USD) per night. My American friend from Virginia chose this option and loved it. There was a strong sense of community with those with hammocks near him. Everyone left their tablets and phones there to charge without fear of theft. Additionally, the hammocks offered kitchen and shower accommodations.
Another friend had stayed in a three-walled hut called dharma about a half a mile on the beach. He paid $500 pesos a night for rustic, camping-like accommodations. There’s also actual camping in tents as well.
Belle Tip: You won’t find most lodging options online to book ahead of time. You’ll want to get there early to snag your best options. You’ll find many hosts standing outside their cabanas, calling out to you their price.
Eating in Chacahua
On the comfortable end, I’d reserve $500 MX pesos daily for meals. Breakfast plates plus coffee and tip ran right around $100 pesos. You have a lot of lunch options for $100 MXP. Fish platters (or shrimp or octopus), the most exquisite meal option, will run you about $220-$250. Otherwise, dinners (like tacos and burritos) are also $100. Be sure to budget an extra $60 MXP for smoothies and frozen coffee. $30 MXP Coca-Cola. $80-$100 for cocktails, $30-50 for beers. $30 for post-surf cocos frios.
Sunset dinner at Hotel & Restaurant Isahmar: Fish Platter with rice, salad, and fried for $220 pesos plus $30 coke.
Breakfast: Coffee ($25) and a smoothie ($60)
Lunch: Four mini burritos and fries ($100), a tropical smoothie ($70), plus a burrito to save for later.
Snacks at the tiendas (drinks, cookies, chips, yogurt): $150 pesos
snack from the beach vendors ($35MXP choco flan, fried plantain, empanadas)
Alcoholic Cocktails ($80)
To Do in Chacahua
With gentle rolling waves and no phone service, Chacahua is known as a place to chill and surf. But if you need to break up your chill with activity, here are a few ideas.
Surf – Of course, there’s surf. Board Rental for 1 hour – $100-$150. Surfboard rental all day $300
Bioluminescence Tour – For about S100-200 pesos, which is cheaper than if you take the tour from Puerto Escondido ($500-$800), you can see the bioluminescent plankton in the lagoon at night. Your best bet is to go during a new moon on the darkest nights. The plankton also washes up on the sand. Kick the sand at night; it’ll light up with blue neon.
Weed – $100 MXP ($6USD) I must put a disclaimer here. I don’t smoke. Anything. At all. However, it is a popular recreation on the island (and in Oaxaca. And in Mexico in general). A comrade of mine pulled out an enormous bag of marijuana on the breakfast table. He said a bag of that quantity would run $80USD in the US. And he could get 15-20 joints out of it. These are things people want to know..
Boat Activities– For approx $1600 pesos, you can negotiate for a boat captain to take you fishing, Whale watching, or on a lagoon photo tour.
Sunsets- the sunsets on the Pacific Ocean are majestic, regardless of which country you’re in. However, in Chacahua, the sun sets on the lagoon rather than the ocean. You’ll have several restaurant options to grab dinner and watch the sunset simultaneously.
Sunrise- Accordingly, in Chacauhua, the sunrises over the ocean are equally as sacred as sunsets. You’ll just have to get up earlier.
Volleyball– On the lagoon side, outside of Cafe 420, you can watch or participate in Beach volleyball. Fair warning: the guys can get really competitive and aggressive.
Lighthouse Hike– for $15 MXP, you can take a boat across the river to the lighthouse. It’s a quick walk. Do not be fooled — the lagoon is wider than it appears and, although a strong swimmer can make it across — just pay the $15 pesos! Although the hike looks monumental, it’s an easy 15 minutes.
Chill – There’s not much to do, but plenty of people to do nothing with. Chilling is the most popular pastime. This is often the most challenging part for people. This quiet, remote region is the best place for alone time in your hammock, journaling, practicing an instrument, and catching up on your latest novel. We spent a lot of time getting to know people
Party – a party is rare. There might be a lively gathering on a Saturday. Last Saturday, I spent my time hanging out at a late-night chill spot for the 30+ crowd. It was mostly talking, singing with a guy with a guitar, and card-playing. As I headed home at midnight, I did a lap around a spot playing reggaeton with chants of “ay ay ay.” There was a lot of young, local energy there.
While I hesitate to write about it for fear that it will attract too many visitors, Chacahua really is a special spot to just be. It does take planning to get there. But once you’re there, the people you meet are the main attraction.
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