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In Arizona, Destinations, France, United States on
April 25, 2019

Travel is the Vehicle that Connects Past, Present, and Future

Black Arizona landforms against a vibrant, flaming sunset

A 5 minute read

While road tripping in 2016 to complete my “All 50 States” tour, I pulled over along a desolate highway. The sunset views against Arizona’s Painted Desert deserved so much more than a passing glance as I drove through. I got out of my car and stood amidst absolute, complete silence and watched nature take place.

I’d never seen anything like it. Iridescence cascaded into/like an overture/coloratura across the sky.  The sun painted murals on rock formations. Fallen, petrified trees from the late Triassic period, 225 million years ago interspersed throughout the barren landscapes soon gave way to majestic silhouettes accented by stars that seemed close enough to pull right out of the sky.

There I stood, somewhere between, “the bright blessed day and dark sacred night” that inspired Armstrong’s crooning and led him to rejoice, “What a wonderful world.” Wonderful world, indeed.

Engulfed in awe of the creator’s innovation, my heart overflowed with gratitude that the composer saw fit to share this masterpiece with me.
At the moment, an elucidation that captured this experience from Forest Gump, long buried in the depths of my mind, rose to the surface, “In the desert, when the sun comes up, I couldn’t tell where heaven stopped, and Earth began. It was so beautiful.” At this moment, I too struggled to distinguish Heaven from Earth. For the first time, I understood.

Surrounded by both vast nothingness and the density of significance at once, all of the people I love came to mind. I wanted them to have a moment like this. I wished they could witness this. I craved for them to feel all of this.  

desert sunrise with beautiful artistic hues of pinks, purples, and blues.
                       I want you to know how these colors feel.

I view the world through a historical lens. Whereas an engineer may look at something and ask how it works, I look for clues left by previous generations to learn the story of why and document to provide clues for the next.  I travel in order to cover as much ground as possible to increase the probability that I trace the steps of my progenitors but also, lay a path for descendants.  I try to have many unique experiences so when others experience the same, it bridges a gap of understanding in a way that it couldn’t by being explained.

For example, I grew up in a military family. Saturday mornings often started with a G.I. Party (the military community knows, this is not an exciting event) and getting ready for school came with the expectation that it only takes three minutes to do the  Three S’s. After 22 years of growing up in that environment, it wasn’t until I experienced military training for myself that I learned it is indeed possible to get ready in three minutes (which is 90 seconds more than what’s actually needed).  That experience helps me relate to every American warfighter that has come before me in a way I couldn’t before.  Visiting Charleston, I was filled with an enormous sense of family connection. Although I don’t know for sure, the statistics make it highly probable that someone from my family’s past walked the same streets centuries before. Even after reading Little Women multiple times and watching both versions of the movie, it wasn’t until visiting the March family home, Orchard House, in Concord, Mass that I felt that I really got to know the family.  Tracing the steps of James Baldwin, Richard Wright, and Lois Mailou Jones in Paris’ Latin Quarter helps to understand their muses and inspires creativity of one’s own. The same goes for visiting the homes and frequented localities of all historical figures. It gives a snapshot of the surroundings of the historical figure, how they lived, and what influenced their thoughts. It helps to understand how they worked through some of their decisions and thought processes. I know, from visiting the Kennedy Library and Museum that Jacqueline took a cruise to Paris with friends while in college and it was the best year of her life. But I don’t know any such information about anyone in my family.

I’d like to able to know and connect with my family in the same way, but so much of my family’s history went undocumented. I do have some say over the documentation prepared for the future of my family to be able to know and connect in the same way that I do historical figures.

So I travel. I do things. I search out a diversity of experiences, not only so I can find some commonality with people I come in contact with today, and so I can relate to people of yesteryear, but also for those who come next will be able to identify with me in some way.

Regardless of France’s past and current transgressions as colonizers, and irrespective of the more impactful uses of contribution money, Notre Dame’s burning is a loss.  The losses of St Mary Baptist, Greater Union Baptist, and Mount Pleasant Baptist in Louisiana and the several mosques also burning at the same time does not detract from the loss of this Catholic Church in France. It is a loss of history — literary history, architectural history, religious history, cultural history, and personal history. And it is a loss of a future. Three generations of women in my family explored this site together during a wonderful summer trip, and now, our future generations will not see it as we saw it.

The backs of a small crowd watch Notre Dame durn from afar on a hill.
I can only imagine what it would be like: To be going about my day, look up, and see the smoke, then realize it’s Notre Dame burning.

In the wake of the devasting fire to Paris’ Notre Dame Cathedral, social media users flooded their timelines with the nostalgia of Paris vacations.  Criticisms grew that this act was merely bragging.  When we grieve the loss of a pet, it is common to remember by showing pictures of the memories with them. When we mourn the loss of a loved one, we do the same thing. When a home full of warm memories is lost, we often use pictures to help us remember those memories and grieve. And in the most heartbreaking occasions, when a dream is lost, one of the ways we grieve is by looking at pictures of that dream.  Have we gotten so cynical and disconnected from humanity that we confuse the human emotion of grief for bragging? And really, isn’t that the central focus on social media? A platform to draw attention to yourself?

The places we travel become the setting for the story of our lives.  Perhaps, my progeny won’t give their ancestors a second thought, but at least if they do, the more places I travel, the easier it will become for those who come after me to visit and find a connection if they so wished. When they find themselves randomly out in the middle of the desert, witnessing all its glory, and they’re longing for someone to share it with, they’ll know they had an adventurous ancestor who sent everywhere and saw everything and likely witnessed it and felt the same way too.  Perhaps, if the Earth is still around, four generations from now,  my offspring will visit France’s capital. Perhaps they’ll respond just like me and marvel at finally witnessing the architecture discussed in classes first hand. Perhaps they’ll be like some of my travel companions and be underwhelmed.  Perhaps, if it is rebuilt, they’ll climb the tower. Perhaps if restored properly, they won’t have to climb the steps and take the elevator instead. Maybe my future offspring will see the cathedral for the first time with friends. Perhaps they’ll make their mark on eternity and get engaged right next to the Charlemagne statute, under the shade of the trees.  At the very least, perhaps those scions will at least have the primary source document that shows four generations of women in their family have gone to Paris, strolled the narrow alleyways, delighted in the cuisine, and had their picture taken in front of La Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris.

In Europe, Germany on
June 20, 2018

Dating German Guys

So this guy is just a google.de image of a German man (come on guys, I can’t really just go around snapping photos of the beautiful strangers I run across on a daily bases). He is just an example of the serious cuteness that wanders the streets of Germany.

 

 

 

Okay, let’s talk about guys. That’s what people really want to hear when talking about Europe…guys.  Do you know, when I told everyone back home about me moving to Germany, they all said something tantamount to, “Prince Charming is over there waiting for you.”

No one ever said there was a Prince Charming waiting for me in China (which with high ratio of men to women, would probably be more likely but that’s a whole other story to discuss at another time).

Here’s my take, thus far, on European (and more specifically German) men.

 

The German Men

How cute is this Deutsche Olympian?

 “Why on Earth don’t they like me,” I asked the small heard of German-speakers at an international cocktail party on the beach in Montenegro.  When in an international setting, I now tend to settle amongst the Germans. I am a Stuttgart girl. Germany is home. My question was the response to an Austrian telling me that, in order to learn German, I needed to do one of two things:

1. Get drunk, and then talk to everyone

2. Get a German (speaking) boyfriend.

Getting drunk is about as easy as downing one German-sized hefeweizen.  Scoring a German-speaking sweetheart, well, that’s horse of another color.

The beautiful sunny view from the terrace of the hotel where we worked. Germany was gloomy and about 50 degrees Fahrenheit when we left. Montenegro was amazing!

 

One, I already have a French-speaking American beau that I’m not interested in trading in at the moment. And yes, dating him has improved my French.

Two, while I will say I do have a hint of modesty, I’m well-aware that I possess many features often attributed as standard, conventional beauty.  I’m in shape and, like all southern belles are raised to do, I put effort into my appearance.
I understand I may not be attractive to everyone. But after a year or two in Germany, no German has even tried to approach.  I explained that and my new friends acted shocked that I don’t attract the German men!  Ever so often a group of folks from all over Germany working in our IT company travel from time to time to Eastern Europe. This was our second time traveling together somewhere. The first time, they taught me some German and inspired me to continue learning in a classroom. Now, I was ready to practice on the out on the town.  Most of the men were named Michael. There was one Klaus.

Me with the German-speaking Michaels (Austrians included!)

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One guy friend said, “No! You know you’re beautiful. Attractive.  If you don’t think so you are crazy!” Michael # 3 made a point to make sure I knew and understood my appearance met approval.

“They don’t know how to take you,” Michael #1 explained.

I explained how I asked a cute neighbor, Sebastian, to dinner once and never heard back from him. They asked how long I knew him. I said less than one hour. And they explained that was the problem. Germans get to know people first. One of the Michaels said, “If you asked me to dinner, I would think you were joking to make fun of me,” stating that I was much too beautiful to be interested in him. He said Germans are shy.  They all assured that German men are not
blind and really are attracted to me… except maybe the “schwul” ones.  “Everyone in Germany understands ‘schwule,’ even the non-German speaking American girl.  And yet, they don’t hit on me. I even initiate convo in their language. They pay no mind. Hmm…I think, maybe it’s because I’m an outsider. Maybe they don’t date sub-six foot women.  The Germans and Austrians I conversed with suggested the key to getting in good with German men is to establish a German female
friend base. It is true; the folks I hang out with the most are other Americans or at least other Expats.  So, I think I’ll work on it a bit more in a new direction knowing that I am the one who has to show interest and make the first move.

Generally speaking, I’m against objectifying all people. But just for this one instance, I’m taking a moment for revenge on all women who have ever been objectified by objectifying men back.  This German guy, is a swoon-worthy object of lust!
He’s Badden-Wurttemberg boy, Michael Fassbender who played in Inglorious Bastards and 300!

I see beautiful German men all the time on the train. They are a phenomenal specimen of men. These men are the skyscrapers of men. They can work a business suite like no other. The whole darn country is active and sporty and it shows
amazingly well. They have these mysterious blue eyes under dark hair or sometimes blond hair. Germans have very captivating, science & logical minds.  And in this group of men, they are a ton of fun and loads of laughs. I think it’s a true indicator of your grasp of a language when you can tell jokes that translate well, and these guys were like a joke factory.  After our discussion I decided to research “The German Man” and came across this article.  In order to effectively communicate, I must know my audience.

This fella is just one of many gorgeous soccer (ah-hem, football) players in Germany: Bayer Leverkusen.Why is he so cute?

Anyway, I think as a whole in general, German men follow the values of the old south. Men take the responsibility of being a leader and provider of the home seriously meaning they will work to provide for their family. They are also taught to be polite and not hoot and holler at women as American women (and French ones and Italians) are accustomed. Maybe German women have trained them well enough that men who take the more caveman approach are not successful. Although I don’t think American men who catcall are rewarded by their behavior and yet it seems to happen anyway.   Apparently, a German guy could be very interested but never let on in the conventional U.S. fashion that he’s into you. Now, I see German couples all the time with German babies so someone is being successful in getting German men to make a move.  The approach to capturing the heart and attention of these men are quite different than what we’re
socialized in American, France and English dating culture. Thus, German men are the most difficult group of guys I’ve come across in breaking into the dating scene. But like with all things, if it was easy, it would lose its value. I’ll keep you posted on how my research goes.  Now, back to my more professional self.

In Destinations, Europe, France on
June 7, 2014

The Day They Came: Memorial Day In Normandy

A degree in history, documentaries, first person narratives, war movies, and living in Germany only partially helped me grasp the enormity of the D-Day mission. It took this Memorial Day trip to Normandy to fill the gaps in order for me to better understand what those brave young Americans went through to liberate Europe. Actually being on the beach where these American boys accomplished the impossible left me fueled with such an unexplainable sense of victory and pride in knowing that I’m a small part of this remarkable legacy.Did I ever mention I am a third, consecutive Armed Forces service member?  My mom crossed the pond to visit me in May and I promptly booked a chartered tour with Interra- Reisen for the most meaningful Memorial Day of our lives. Bless her heart, nearly the day after landing in Stuttgart, Mama Belle jumped on a crowed tour bus, still jet-lagged, for this mother-daughter road trip adventure I won’t soon forget.  It was spent not just remembering the heroic acts of bravery that occurred on the shores of France, but understanding all the events that would be known as D-Day.

 

Day 1:
The bus rolled out at 5:30 am. Mom and I promptly fell asleep until breakfast at a truck stop then back to sleep until we arrived at Giverny, France where the famous French impressionist, Claude Monet spent most of his life. How fabulous to stroll the wild, unruly gardens and the forever immortalized lily-pond that inspired the blinding artist.  What amazed me was that his best works were made as he was practically blind just as Beethoven’s masterpieces were written while he was practically deaf.   Proving any challenge can be overcome if you’re passionate enough to work through it.

 

The bus continued on the journey towards Normandy, stopping in Cean for the night.  We spent the night in a forgettable roadside hotel similar to a Best Western. It was in a quiet, industrial area of town. There was an unimpressive steakhouse in walking distance. Outside the hotel was also a street car to take visitors in town where there was more lively activity and better selection of restaurants. If you’re saving on money, the outskirts of the town is the way to go. We had such a long exhausting drive and days packed, with a specific adventure that being in the midst the nightlife of Caen was not a priority.

Day 2:

After buffet breakfast in the hotel, we departed.

 

Biscuits, gravy, pancakes with maple syrup just doesn’t happen in Europe. You do get cold cuts of meat, pastries, and cheese.
Salmon and cheese are also part of the European breakfast but no scrambled eggs and toast.
Our chariot. significant because I have a friend with Monnier as a last name.

The first stop of the day was La Cambe German War Cemetery which contains the remains of 21,000 German military personnel killed between 6 June- 20  Aug 1944.  Outside, an engraved stone states, “Kriegsgräber sind die großen Kommunikatoren des Friedens” or “War graves are the great communicators of peace.”

First noticeable difference of German war graves and American are the shape and color of the crosses.  I think the dark crosses just add to the melancholy of the field whereas the rows of white crosses at American cemeteries are somber but still heroic.
The figures on both sides of the cross are symbolic of the parent who lost their children. Now they are looking over them. Burried in this mound are 296 Germans, only 89 of which are identified by name.
View from the top of the mound.
One German Solider known only to God. This man was likely to by young…around 22-years-old with hopes and dreams that were never fulfilled.  He likely did not chose the cause or to fight but ended up here anyway.  Although he was an adversary, and possibly took American lives, the loss of his life is still heartbreaking.
Here, a 24 year old boy is buried with an unknown counterpart.
Final line: “God has the last word”
Mama in the Garden of peace.

After the short pit stop at the cemetery we journeyed on to the village of Saint Mere Eglise where the Musee Des Troupes Aeroportees (the Airborne Museum) is located. While traveling between locations, we watched The Longest Day to set the tone for what we were about to experience.

History impacts you more when you can relate to it…or when you can see yourself in the stories. I have never been able to identify any element of myself in George Washington in the continental Congress. It is hard for me to envision myself as a heartless ruler like Nero or Christopher Columbus. I cannot relate to the violent gladiator culture pervasive in ancient Rome. But standing on Omaha Beach with my mom at this point in my life, American military history was made real. For the first time, being a beach-storming soldier was relatable.  Just normal young, 20-something-year-old Americans who went through training, bonded with the members of their units, with hopes, and dreams, and were given a task to accomplish were shot and killed where I stood.

 

So June 6th
began and they came.

At 1 am the French night sky filled with 13,000 floating Paratroopers. Could you imagine being in a sleepy, little charming French town and seeing such a sight!? I was raised down the interstate from 101st Airborne “Screaming Eagles” stationed out of Fort Campbell, Kentucky. Recognizing their emblem in the Airborne Museum and knowing these boys trained in Kentucky formed a connection and sense of identity.  Joining them in the sky was the 82nd Airborne out of Ft Bragg, the British 6th Airborne Division, and the 1st Canadian Parachute Battalion.  The young American men fulfilled the mission of liberating the village of Sainte-Mère-Église.

 

This quiet town was taken without much force by Germans in 1940.  But four years later on D-Day American paratroopers took the town back with glory due to its strategic location making it the first liberated French town.

This is the church in the middle of the town where the storied American hero, John Steele, got his parachute stuck on the spire on his way down. He hung there for two hours before the Nazis took him prisoner. Of course, being the American BA that he was, he escaped and took some 30 Nazis prisoner and killed a few. Other paratroopers who got stuck on trees and poles were not so lucky to be taken captive and were just killed on the spot. I can just imagine the night sky filled with floating warriors ascending on the charming ancient town.

A dummy still hangs from the ancient church, memorializing John Steele.
It is humbling to remember these were just regular 20-something year old boys given a daunting mission, knowing that the world was depending on them to succeed.
Lieutenant Colonel and Lieutenant embracing their heritage.
On our journey we stopped at the Liberty Milestone of Utah Beach then spent a lot of time exploring Omaha Beach.

 

Then

 

Today
It was surreal to be standing on the same beach where the gory, graphic opening scenes of Saving Private Ryan took place.  I could envision the images from the movie on the beach where I stood.  The landing craft, barbwire, cliffs, Carnage-littered shore, the dunes, the smell of it all, the sounds of agony, the bunkers where the barrage of German machine guns mercilessly rattled toward the Allies. All the dismal obstacles mounted against them, and somehow they emerged triumphantly.
 What I refused to imagine was seeing the friends I’d trained and partied with disemboweled and scatted about.  Or being the one in charge of leading troops that were decapitated or going into shock right in front of me and not being able to do a thing about it. I imagine the thoughts that would be going through my head would be something like — “My goodness (maybe some profanity) the slaughter has been going on for an hour and somehow I’m still alive. Why am I still alive?”

 

Seeing the beach I could understand the description “the longest day.” When would the day end? D-Day was just the first day of Operation Overload. Devastation would continue all summer!

This Memorial Day, my mom and I stood in the same hopeless space where so many Americans fought for their lives just to get ashore. Today there was no hint of the gruesome events that occurred on this very spot just almost 68 years before. The skies were blue. The landscape was lush. The day was warm with a chilly breeze. Birds sang their beautiful song. The waves gently rolled in, and mom and I had a baguette sandwiches picnic on the dunes. A picnic in a former war zone— Imagine that.
Then we visited the American Cemetery at Colleville sur Mer overlooking Omaha Beach.

 

The trees were intentionally groomed this way to symbolize the lives cut short.
The last stop on our unforgettable journey was Pointe du Hoc where the Rangers made their dramatic landing. Although this Operation took place before all others, we saw it last to accommodate business hours of the cemetery and Airborne Meuse.
Within ten minutes, the young Brits surprised the German guards and took the Ranville and Bénouville Bridges (the latter was later renamed Pegasus Bridge in honor if the British Airborne Solider) disrupting the Nazis’ ability to pursue a counterattack. When more Nazis showed up 2 hours later, Maj Howard held it down.

We sojourned to Arromanches to see the remains of the artificial port then Benouville to see the Pegasus Bridge, where British air-troops landed. In the evening we rested in the lovely village of Courseulles sur Mer, where we dinned on a typical seafood dinner in one of the cozy restaurants before retiring to our hotel.

There were two more days of the tour that guided us to an excursion to Le Mont Saint Michel then of course, you cannot road trip France without going to Paris. However, my pilgrimage to Normandy was the most eventful and meaningful. Disorganization, confusion, and incomplete or faulty implementation of carefully drawn-out plans lead to such pain, destruction and heartbreak followed with courage and determination and resulting in glory and triumph.  Seeing how a place so horrific could be turned into something beautiful called to mind Igor Stravinsky’s Firebird Suite. ‘The Inferno’ was the war, followed by the finale of today. Out of all the despair and devastation comes hope, renewal, and beauty. Misery, regardless of how bleak and dismal, regardless if you can see the end in sight or not, doesn’t last always.

Mont Saint Michel visited later during the extended weekend. Click to start planning your Normandy weekend.
I  believe all service members need to make a pilgrimage to Normandy at some point. The beaches are a standing monument of America valor. I have accomplished some pretty cool feats but whether crossing the finish line of a marathon, or the stage at graduation with distinction, I have never been more proud than I was crossing this battlefield. This was an accomplishment that reached far greater than myself. It happened 70 years ago but still impacted me and the history of the world.

 

In Destinations, Europe, Spain on
April 12, 2014

Gastronomy In Bilbao: Experiencing The Culture Through Food

Kaixo Ya’ll! 
If only someone was taking photos of my expressions there would have been photo booth images of roll my eyes, OMG, holy smack! What did I just put in my mouth? Mmm… good surprise written all over my face.  The food was the uncontested highlight of my time spent in Bilbao, Spain.

 

Before leaving home, a google search for  “gastronomie” lead me to the resturuant, Nerua in the Guggenheim Bilbao Museum.  So, I booked a late lunch reservation on line at the recipient of the coveted Michelin star distinction two hours after my plane was due to touch down.  I entered the restaurant from the outside of the museum on the Spider statue side and wind up directly in the kitchen of the restaurant.
I gave the deer-in-the-headlights look when the kitchen staff all paused and greeted me with “Buenos Dias!” I instantly thought I must have entered somewhere where I shouldn’t be. I backed out of the door but was collected by a server and shown to my table. There was only me and one other table occupied so I received individualized service. It was fantastic.  I was catered to like Belle in Beauty and the Beast.  The special care I was given let it be known, gave way that this was going to be quite the culinary experience like no other.

 

 

Meanwhile, as bread and wine was brought out, I took on the role as food paparazzi.  Noticing me taking constant photos, the staff asked if I wanted to take a seat in the kitchen.

 

 

I chose the meal option with eight courses over the six, with the chef’s wine selection for every course. The courses just kept getting better.  I didn’t even know what I was eating half the time so my mind couldn’t predict what it should taste like ahead of time.  Sometimes I was expecting cold, sweet, citrus, but what I got was warm spicy, hearty sweet. Surprise stayed written all over my face. I had 11 individuals working regimentally and in silence on my one meal!
Now I don’t have all the hoity-toity, fancy food critic words to describe each bite. In fact, I was almost tempted to watch Disney’s Ratatouille for inspiration. All I can tell you is this food was divine and the overall experience well worth all I paid.  So instead of me trying to explain to you the glory that danced on my taste buds, please take a stroll through my photo essay on my culinary experience:
Dropping local fish skin in hot grease

 

Sprinkling seasonings

 

tasty, crunchy flavorful appetizer.

 

This is Adrian from Argentina. He’s a kitchen leader.

 

Red miso with warm navy bean broth. Mmmm

 

The navy bean broth in a jar.

 

 

Diligent with his attention to detail.
I have no idea how something that looks like this should taste. What a surprise to my taste buds!

 

Savory: white turnip, nutmeg, Iberian pork. If my parents made turnips tast like this it would have been my favorite vegetable.
Something this mouthwatering takes teamwork.
Oyster barrage, chive, citronella grass broth

 

 

White prawns, barley soup, spinach & whiskey

 

It takes three guys to make one dish just for me.

 

Artichokes, Iberian pork delicacies in green coffee extract

 

Then I had a choice between Foie Gras and Fried Hake. I took the Hake.

 

My wine pairing.

 

Would you guess this was warm, sweet and spicy? It’s caramelized persimmon with cinimon and lime.

 

A different wines and a Spanish beer with each course.

 

Why yes, I do need two desserts. Pure chocolate & spicy marzipan.

 

After the meal, I shot the breeze with Adrian, the Argentinian cutie, who translated for the Master Chef.  I expressed how impressed I was that young people created such a meal. Everyone in the kitchen with the exception of the head chef was under 30 years old. The  were from all over the world but mostly spoke Spanish with one another. My personalized meal started at 2pm. The team was going to take a  hike in the distant mountains before returning to cook at 7 pm. I told them about my five-year-old sobrina who wants to be a cook.  “Maybe when she is seven she can come work for us,”  The head chef joked in Spanish and Adrien translated.

I expressed how it seemed as though they really cared. They must love me if they take the time to have five cooks using little tweezer-like utensils to perfectly arrange little balls of miso in bean broth or just to chat with me afterwards. This was their life’s passion that they shared with me. This team wanted to make sure I had good food to eat. I witnessed no yelling or ego or tempers existed like on the television shows, Top Chef or Hell’s Kitchen.   No boxed mac ‘n cheese or mashed potatoes. No microwaves. No prepackaged food. No food cooked last week. No good enough. No secrets.  No drama. Just plain fabulous. Superb. Fantastical.
All done. Kitchen is spotless again.
As the staff started cleaning after being open to serve me and me alone, I reflected on all that I had just experienced.
So this is gastronomy; cooking with love. Putting your heart, soul, and passion into meals. It was t that moment it donned on me: I was introduced to gastronomy a long time ago by my Grandma Nellie. Although this was my first time dropping some
$300 on a meal, this was not my first gastronomic experience.  The meals seeped in love offered at my grandma’s gave the same experience.

 

When I was a little belle, I used to spend the summers with both of my grandmothers.  Days at my mother’s mama’s house revolved around meals. Whatever I wanted for breakfast she always had in stock or would get for me. She is that awesome. I remember asking for doughnuts and low and behold she had them. Bacon and biscuits, she break it out for me. Pancakes or waffles, she’d have it. Any cereal I could name, she’d have it for me. At home, I’d just have to make due with the one cereal we had on hand but with grandma, breakfast was made to order!  I remember taking a long shot and requesting Toaster strudels which, by the way, they don’t sale in Germany, for breakfast. I saw commercials for them and thought it looked good.  She happened to have coupons for them and said ok. We went to the super market that day. Since that summer that I was 8 years old, they’ve been a mainstay on her grocery list and you can count on them always being in her freezer.
Me & Grandma Nellie

 

For lunch I’d have a sandwich. I used to only do mayo sandwiches. It Grandma Nellie who introduced me to the concept of actually putting meat and cheese on sandwiches.  I remember sitting at her table and her asking me what I wanted on my wheat bread and me listing off Mayonnaise.  She complied but I think it through her off because she mentioned my choice to my aunt later on.  It wasn’t long before she had be trying out deli slices. She’d cut my sandwich bread into fourths or, on particularly grown-up days, halves. Sometime in triangles, other times in squares or rectangles. I remember feeling special and anticipating what shape may sandwich would be in for the day. And I got chocolate milk. Everyday. Sometimes I’d sneak a guzzle Hershey’s chocolate syrup out of the aluminum can she always bought it in. I even got her to buy strawberry syrup for me. She was the one who introduced the addition of cheese on broccoli instantly making broccoli my favorite vegetable. In fact, all vegetables were made better by grandma: potatoes, green beans, carrots. Grandma could cook them so they were edible to the most selective pallet of the second grader.
If I was tidy, sometimes I’d get a dessert served later in the evening in green bowls full of vanilla ice cream with fresh strawberries that I could eat them in the living room while watching the news with her.  And to top it all off… I got to stay up late… ‘til 11 pm. I tell ya, Grandma Nellie’s house was a child’s luxury vacation resort.

 

When my parents picked me up I was so excited to go home but it wasn’t long before I missed grandma’s attention to detail when cooking. I told my mom how her mama used to cut my sandwiches before serving them to me. My mom confirmed, yes, she cooks with love. This was the first time I ever understood the concept of cooking with love. Grandma Nellie must love me because she cut my sandwiches for me. She cares about the food that I put into my body. Her meals were healthy, not for me to just shovel in to keep me alive. The extra effort and care put into my meals made me know I was, without a doubt, loved by this woman.
My initial experience at Nerua transcended the resturuant and was experienced in all aspects of my Bilbao exploration. There was no settling for good enough anywhere. The attention to detail was evident in  service, food, and every angle and curve of the architecture and art. Even the simple finger food appeared to be made with pride. What a fabulous example to apply to life. Whatever you do, put your passion into it. No secrets, nothing to hide. Of course, as the chefs at Nerua displayed, this doesn’t work if your work is massed produced to serve billions and billions. But to your selected few, good enough is not good enough. Put your heart and soul into your work and serve with pride.
That’s all for now y’all!
 xoxo,
     Belle
In Destinations, Europe, France on
February 3, 2014

Staying With Strangers In Strasbourg

My momma is going to want to jerk a knot in me when she reads this post. But seeing as though she is a thousand miles and an ocean away, I think it is safe to tell this tale and remain knot-free (for now). So here goes!
The adventure part of this tale began when I was dinning alone in an outdoor café in Strasbourg.  This was my first time in France and first international trip that started in Germany.  I never heard of the town until I read in a local travel magazine that it was a great weekend getaway for Stuttgarters. So I seize the day…or the weekend rather, and with nothing but a carry-on-sized suit case and a GPS, I jumped in a rented Benz and headed out.
Two hours later I arrived and wasn’t sure what I should do next.

It was lunch time so why not jump line at the McDonald’s drive thru? Well, for one, I had a considerable language barrier that I did not consider. I didn’t speak a lick of French outside of Frère Jacques and voulez vous coucher avec moi and being in the drive-thru, I couldn’t point to what I wanted or play charades to explain that I wanted Chicken McNuggets and a McFlurry.  But with a mix of my newly acquired Schwabbish dialect of German and English…the McD’s hostess delivered my culinary request.

They asked if I wanted American fries. Well, of course I want the fries McD’s sells in America…this is what I got.  French fries isn’t a thing apparently.  You have Frites and American Fries. No French Fries.
I used the GPS to guide me to the attractions.  I spent the day moseying around the river, parks, and neighborhoods just imagining what it would be like to live and work in Strasbourg. Strasbourg has railway streetcars that remind me of the ones in New Orleans that ran through the neutral ground (median). Then it dawned on me, they call it the French Qarter for a reason. Of course when the French came and settled that area of America they’d bring their architecture and city planning style with them.

 

As the sun began to set and I began to get hungry again, I stumbled upon the heart of Strasbourg. So this is what the fuss was about. This charming, historic, little town on the French and German border is what I’d imagine would happen if France and Germany got married and had a baby. Apparently, the city has been on both sides of the French and German border multiple times through the centuries due to wars. Street signs are written in both languages.

 

 

The architecture looks like the real life illustrations of a German fairytale.  Down the cobble stone streets I could hear both French and German being spoken but in all the shops I was greeted with, “Bonjour Madam.” I thought for sure they had to be the nicest people ever and the pleasant greeting was just for me! Later, I gathered saying, “hello ma’am” to everyone was just common courtesy here.

 

So that brings me back to where this story began, at an outdoor picturesque café in La Petite France district of Strasbourg. It was evening. I was hungry and sitting at a candlelit table for one. One of the most pleasant differences of dining in France as opposed to dinning in Germany is the menu. I couldn’t speak a lick of French, but French is the language of food! I understood every bit of that menu. Pinot Noir, boeuf, brie, hollandaise sauce, béarnaise sauce, al gratin, crème brulee…with the french treatment.
Well, a few tables away was a delightfully rowdy bunch of French men enjoying the first weekend evening of September. As I finished my meal of steak and potato at my candle-lit table set for one, the most boisterous of the bunch, calls over to me in French. I’m mid-sip of my white wine.  I smile as I do when I have no idea what’s going on and shake my head. He says something again and I tell him I don’t understand. So he tries again in English, “Come on, I am not asking you out on a date.”  Well, since he wasn’t asking me out on a date, those were the magic words.  I’d spent all day in silence, with just me and my thoughts, I could use some company.  I was hoping one of them would be named Henri for the sole reason it was the name of the pigeon Fievel sang “Never say Never” with in American Tail. No such luck. When I relocated with my wine to their table I introduced myself to two men named Claude, Jean, and Ali. Ali, was the loud one. What amazes me is that, while Americans tend to get tripped up by my name, often renaming me something more familiar to them, the French allow my name to roll over tongue with grace, dignity, and ease.  It does have French roots. They were all older than me, probably by 10 years or more. And so the discussion began.

 

I noticed there are three common conversation themes when I speak to European men:
1.
Their support for President Obama
2.
Why is this American girl doing in Germany
3.
The black girlfriend they once had a long time ago.
This post-dinner conversation was no different. It started with a mini lesson in french…all the guys giving me essential French phrases…essential including flirty French phrases.  They came to understand how little of their language I knew.  They tried to teach me phrases in French that I could use on my French-speaking American beau. I loved how they pronounced his last name the way it should be pronounced vice the American corruption of it.  Then we started in on political affairs which was nice because that’s why I was going to school and I could get the French perspective. Now, I do appreciate a lively debate so long as it stays on the topic at hand and does not turn into attacks on the individual.  The conversation segued into quantifying the level of racism in America in comparison to France and Germany.  It all started when I talked about how much I loved Germany and they talked about how horrible Germans were back in WWII. I do not like absolute terms. Clearly not all Germans are Nazis. I had grown so much in love with my new hometown I felt like Germany needed defending. I just had not experienced the racism in Europe that I had in America, granted I spent more time in America.  The French men were in agreement that France was racist and Germany was more so. I explained my German Great-Grandfather who came to America and married a black woman and had eight babies with her. And hey, being a Nazi then could have easily been a means of survival. But with this conversation I could tell the WWII grudge still existed. In America I feel that we’ve more or less forgiven and forgotten. Of course we don’t have the memories or pictures of Nazis marching down our Pennsylvania Avenue in DC like the French have of Nazi troops marching down the Champs-Élysées.

I brought up Josephine Baker and Bessie Coleman who came to France for opportunities they wouldn’t have in America. But they were the crème de la crème of course France will accept the best,  Ali explained. Which is why I felt accepted in Europe. “Your father is rich and you are attractive!”  Ali raised his voice with his French accent. I’m not sure what brought him to the rich conclusion. Possibly assumed because I had the opportunity to study abroad.  Or maybe because we discussed my parent’s occupations. I also wasn’t sure if I was being accused of something. I didn’t have the heart to tell them my mother was the military service member.
“If you were a grand women… like 100 kilos, people would not be so nice to you,” Ali said. “If I were white and 100 kilos they would not be so nice.” I retorted back. “This is true,” Claude #1 laughed. “This world is not Disney Land!” Ali tried to make me see his view.

Ali had just buried his father in Northern Africa. I asked if he had black children. He had to ponder this question. His friends hesitantly said no.  I wondered if the hesitance came from the children being more northern African Arab than they were sub Saharan African and they weren’t classified the same way.  I would have classified Ali as white…although he had a name that would have most assume otherwise.  Goodness, such confusion comes from trying to categorize people into three boxes.

Cafes outside the cathedral
Just then, Ali answered a phone call with his artist friend. I could hear him say magnific and Noir American. Claude translated Ali’s end of the conversation, “He says you are beautiful.”
“And black” I finished. Yes, I recognize the word Noir.  I watched Claud’s face light up. Even though he knew I couldn’t speak a lick of French, he forgot maybe I would know a word or two.
Our discussion brought amusement to the restaurant host who watched with a smile.  Turns out the owner of the restaurant/hotel was Ali’s friend. He spoke to the host in French obviously ordering something. Moments later the host returned with desert! They tried to explain what it was but I could not understand. “Your father,” he explained. Oh, It’s called a colonel. Same word but for some reason, Americans started pronouncing it (and in Kentucky, spelling it) “Kernel”.  It’s lemon sorbet with vodka and it is delightful! A traditional treat I wouldn’t have known about if I kept to myself.

 

It wasn’t long before I learned I was debating with French attorneys!  We talked for three hours. Eventually, the patrons of the sidewalk cafes began to dissipate as meal time entered its final hours.  We decided to continue our conversation at Claude #1’s house. Being the independent American woman that I am, I tried to pay for the colonel. “In France, this is not possible,” Claude #1 said.  Well, so much for that; we were not in Holland (As in going Dutch…I’m attempting to make a joke).  Yes, I am aware of the dangers that lurk when a little, young American girl to go off into the night with three unknown French men in an unfamiliar city. Trust, I was texting my whereabouts to everyone I knew. We turned a few corners of the old town, and wound up not too far away from the Cathedral.

The topics of racism, social justice, and international politics had been put to bed. When I walked into Claude’s designer’s dream of a house, the conversation turned all about architecture and interior design. Outside, was all historic and unassuming.  Inside, we were in a New York City worthy modern loft.  After relaxing, we hit she streets. They trio took me to Les Aviateurs, an American-style bar. I’m not sure how this bar differed from any other bar other than it being decorated in old aviation paraphernalia.

The night dragged on our conversations slowed.  Our final discussion of the night was about Marvin Gaye. Apparently Ali had seen the American musician perform in Paris and was disappointed to learn his father had killed him soon after. Ali still seemed quite upset about this.  There was no excuse he said. The guy didn’t believe in God or his will. They think I don’t smoke because I’m American and Americans don’t smoke.

 

beautiful views along the river

Ali basically invited me to stay with Claude #1 saying there was no reason for me to pay for a hotel when I have friends in Strasbourg.  Oh yes, I know there were risks involved. So many things could go terribly wrong.  I sent texts to co-workers, classmate and friends back in Germany to let them know my address just in case something should happen to me.  I so took the offer.  After experiencing this town as the locals do, I retired in the hip modern loft.

 

view from the bedroom I stayed in.
why not spend the night here!?

 

 

rooftop terrace view

 

I know, I know, Americans gasp in horror of me staying in the home of strangers but as the quote goes, a stranger is just a friend you haven’t met yet.  The world is not a big bad scary place as American news would want you to believe. I’m aware there are some dangerous men out there but I won’t regard every stranger as a threat until proven otherwise.  There’s a benefit to traveling alone. You tend to find yourself in situations you would not ordinarily land in had you traveled with a crew of fellow adventures. And most times, it works out better than planned and makes for an interesting story later.  I got some interesting perspective through conversations I wouldn’t have engaged in had I been in a group. I got the local tour of the old town, and got an insider’s view on lodging. By traveling with only an idea and not a plan, my weekend trip turned out better than expected.
In Destinations, Europe, Fitness, Scotland on
May 10, 2013

A McKenzie in Scotland: Touring Scotland While Fitness Training

G’day ya’ll!

The Queen’s summer getaway spot
I once told people visiting Spain was like visiting home. For once I got to hear Spanish, a language that was familiar to my ears, and it brought a level of ease and comfort that I didn’t experience while being in delightfully strange Germany. Well, for the same reason, being in Scotland also gives me the same sense of home. I’ve gotten into the habit of not speaking to people in public spaces because I don’t want to go through the whole hassle of fumbling with my knowledge of another language…
“Sprechen sie Englisch?”
                  “Parlez-vous Anglais?”
                                          “¿Hablas Inglés?”

It was in Scotland I realized my conditioning! Here I am at Top Shop (my new favorite fashion store btw) sorting through racks of dresses and a girl starts chatting with me and amazingly…I understand every word! For the first time in two years I can talk to strangers in the shops in my native language and it’s also their native language! You just take for granted that privilege until you no longer have it.

In addition to speaking my (adoptive) mother language, Scotland feels like home because I am of Scottish Decent (or I at least have a Scottish last name…whole other story for another day). I had a sense of belonging to finally get to announce my Scottish last name when checking into hotels or making reservations. I know these people probably do not find any significance about my last name but here, it fits in. It’s not in Germany where my last name clearly stands out.
Since I am three weeks out from training for my first fitness competition, my diet is very restricted and I need the ability to cook healthy meals for myself. Fortunately, Scotland is not known for it’s delectable cuisine. So I got a two bedroom apartment hotel at the Holyrood aprtHotel in the Holyrood neighborhood of Edinburgh. I almost felt guilty having so much for little ol’ me. It made me wish my family was there with me. But it had the kitchen, a fitness room/closet, and a grocery store around the corner. It’s in a perfect location near the Royal Mile touristy area. I’ll certainly stay again when I visit Edinburgh. I spent something like 20 USD on fish, eggs, water and couscous food for four days. Not bad. Besides, I packed my own oat meal, seasonings, and tuna.
Tranquility in the middle of the city
Anyway, of course Apart Hotel was a little pricy to maintain the entire time I was there and I didn’t plan where I’d move next after my first few days. Scotland was having some sort of Bank holiday and all the hotels were booked for the weekend. So I got one day at a budget hotel on Princess Street, the main commerce artery of the tourist center, but I still needed another night to cover me before my flight. Nothing like a good vacation with to add a sense of drama to in if I’ll find a place to stay for the night. After some internet searches I found something in my price range through the goodness of airbnb.com
Overall I love Edinburgh. It’s one of my favorite places in all of Europe. It’s beautiful, peaceful, and Edinburgh is just big enough to be an interesting city but without the crazy hustle and bustle of Europe’s major capitol cities. As one local said, Glasgow has a bigger party at a funeral than Edinburgh does at a wedding. And I certainly believe it after just a few daytime hours in Glasgow. So keep that in mind when planning your Scottish visit.
I’d love for my big extended southern family to visit Scotland. And here’s what we’d do if we did:
We’d stay in the ApartHotel or rent a hotel from Airbnb. It’s perfect for exploring the Royal Mile which is the tourist district lined with shops. Royal Mile or actually, High Street, is the mile long road linking the Palace to the castle. From this location you can stroll along the cobble stone streets. If you have the time, I suggest picking either the castle or the palace per day…
Day 1: Get acclimated. Yes! You are really in Scotland! After checking in, buy groceries, visit Holy Rood Palace, stroll the streets, have lunch back in the apartment, spend the afternoon in nature at Holy Rood Park and watch the sunset. You can see the entire city from its highest point. And it’s like being in the country while in the middle of a city. You may be tempted to watch Parliamentary proceedings in their modern building. This I must discourage. I’m not sure why I thought it would be so interesting. It wasn’t. It was as exciting as C-SPAN in a Scottish Accent. Terrible.

C-Span for Scotland (beautiful but boring!)
 Day 2: Explore. Stroll streets, Visit the castle as soon as it opens, have lunch in town, explore the streets while picking up information for evening walking tours from one of the countless advertisements. Rest back in apartment, have dinner before going on an evening walking tour or taking a whiskey tasting evening.

Day 3: Spend time in the Royal Botanical Gardens, check out and return to places in the area you might have missed or want to revisit on The Royal Mile, stroll down to Princes street across the river stopping by the Edinburgh University Library, the free Scottish National Gallery, listen to the Kilt-clad bag piper, shop on George Street and Princes Street (Top Shop, Princes Mall, and Primark are my favorites). Walk Multrees, the city’s first street build since the 18th century. Dine out or Rest up with a meal at home.

Day 4: Time for a city break! Eat a big breakfast and take a Scottish Tour to the Loch Ness and the Highlands. I went on this tour. I was a bit disappointed it was a whirlwind with a lot of driving and pointing but not much getting out and exploring. Besides, when I went in May, it was cold and rainy. Additionally I was afraid to drink anything all day because there were no facilities on the bus and they made it clear they wouldn’t be stopping for
comfort breaks. The best thing about the tour was the guide providing insight on Scottish culture and history in her lovely accent with her terrific story telling abilities. If it weren’t for that, I’d suggest making the same trip on your own.

Day 5 Branch out. I explored much of Edinburgh on foot. Now it’s time to branch out. Next time, I’d use this day to taxi, rent a car, learn the bus system and visit the zoo, the pier, and any other extraneous locations that weren’t in walking distance. See Edinburgh’s neighborhoods outside the tourist district. Relax.

Not to Miss!
If you don’t have five days I’d say Spend your time on the Royal Mile. Holy Rood Palace, Holy Rood park, Edinburgh Castle, the streets, and the monument on Princes Street. If I had more than five days, I’d spend the rest of my time in Scotland road tripping to Carsethorn south of Dumfries on Colvend coast southwest Scotland/Galloway district or to Kippford and Sandyhills. I could spend a summer exploring the gorgeous landforms and coasts on the Scottish country side. Of course, that’s just the country girl in me coming out.

In Destinations, Europe, Greece on
April 13, 2013

I Love Greece In The Spring Time

Lauren and I met in school and amazingly both ended up living on this content at the same time, She in England and me in Germany. Although we were both criss crossing the country we never crossed paths until one day in February, I announced that I was looking for a travel buddy for a Mediterranean cruise. Minutes later Lauren is giving me the number to her travel agent for a cruise she and a roommate had just booked. within the hour she and I were set for a spring break cruise in the Med leaving out of Italy and ending in Athens. This would be Lauren’s final European adventure before she’d make her way back to The States.

Although it’s April, this lush green in Olympia was a sight for sore eyes. Stuttgart and England were still battling cold, gloomy winter.

 

Springtime in full bloom in Olympia.

 

 

We got to the location where the first Olympic games were hosted before the big crowds of tourists.

 

Greek gardens were simply gorgeous this time of year.

I love that the Greek Islands are full of vibrant colors this time of year.

 

Cheaters during the olympics would get their names inscribed in stone for their shady character to be remembered for all times! Maybe we should consider that for our cheater pro athletes of today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Loren looking silly…but really she’s using her artistic talents to capture the simple beauty of the purple flowers.

So much more than gyros. Greek Food, where have you been all my life!

Zorbas…as in the restaurant in My Big Fat Greek Wedding!

The food devoured on this trip needs its own blog entry. Delish!

 

Looks like it should be a post card. We arrived to Mykonos two weeks before the tourist season so it was quiet but most shops, restaurants, and hotels were not open for business.

 

We are at the starting block of the original track and field events for the Olympics! How cool is that? How cool is that for a runner?

 

And I’m losing cus I wasn’t ready!

Vogue spread?

It’s all Greek to me.

Los tres Amigas peering into antiquity.

In Destinations, Europe, Greece on
April 11, 2013

Walking In Athens

I can’t believe I’ve really been here!

It is only fitting that our epic European adventure would come to an epic end in a city equally as epic… Athens, Greece. Lauren, Angie and I would spend a day in Greece before parting ways after a week of adventure after adventure. Quit the bitter sweet end.

 

Athens is a big city and the ancient wonders are such a small part of it. The three of us paid a small fee to enter the historic section. We strolled around paths that millions had walked for centuries, taking note of the ancient ruins and statues of the men we read about in history books. That Hadrian sure got around by the way. I had just seen his villa outside of Rome and Lauren had visited his wall in the UK. And here he is again in Greece.

We climbed a slippery, huge rock overlooking the rest of the city with a 360 degree view to realize that the ancient city, although grand in its own right, was only a small but insignificant part of Athens. There was so much more that we would no way get to see and experience during our short stay.

 

There’s nothing quite like walking around ancient Greece to make one feel so insignificant in the grand scale of the world.  Of all the people who once lived, worked, and loved here… I could only name a few by name. And out of those few, most of them are factitious Greek Gods. Aesop, Aristotle, Euclid, Homer, Plato, Sokrates, Thucydides, all the guys that inspired Raphael’s School of Athens…did they wander around these gardens. Did they recline on the Parthenon steps like us?

Yet the unknown lives of the past were still significant and made a difference…even if it wasn’t recorded for thousands of years. People mourned of these unremembered deaths and yet they were only a few generations removed from being forgotten. Souls connect for a brief moment in time then wither away without witness and without memory as if their epic love story never existed.  I wondered what the pillars holding up these temples would say if they could talk.

Perhaps lovers and best friends have been walking nervously down the same paths I strolled since before Jesus came.  Perhaps three chica friends dressed in their white Grecian robes and gold sandals from 500 BC laughed and told jokes with one another in the very space Lauren, Angie, and I posed taking selfies. Perhaps they dished the dirt on guys, discussed their worries, and gushed about their awesome weekend.
While touring the Acropolis, a group of photographers, in Athens for a photography convention, stumbled upon us trying to take selfies with my iPad. They did us a favor and took some pics of us with their cameras.

Although I’m sure I could have learned more from having a guide, so much of what I saw in Athens I had studied from high school arts and humanities, world civ, or college history classes. So many images from moves were brought to life where I could say, “Hey! I recognize that.” Like the Caryatid (female sculpture serving as a column) Porch of the Erecheion… I recognized them most from the women singing in the intro to Disney’s animated film, Hercules.

 

Athens is a city that you feel. Like Marc Cohn felt about Memphis, Tennessee, Athens is a city that changes you. When you leave, you leave a different person.  I would love to return and explore with more time here; next time with my parents who I know would get a kick out of Greece.  It’s relatively cheap in comparison to the rest of Europe. You can eat gyros and other street food for a euro. Trains and mopeds will get you around town for next to nothing. It’s warm enough to peel the skin in early April while it’s still snowing in Stuttgart.  The islands are beautiful and lush. The big city is captivating. Tourist season is certainly summertime and the islands are shut down and activity on them is sparse before then.  I didn’t see much evidence of the unemployment and economic hardships emphasized in the media but I will say Athens was a bit grimier than Germany but heck, what part of Europe isn’t? The further east of Germany one travels in Europe, the grimier the big cities get with litter and graffiti  it gets. Athens was no different than say Budapest, Budva, Tirana, from what I saw.

 

Greek Olives

 

 

If I returned I’d probably start in Athens, take about five days to really explore the history and enjoy the contemporary then take tourist ferry trips to the other islands.  I bought tons of junk the first time around.  I’d enjoy the night life and delve further into the city to see the real Athens apart from the tourist Athens. I’d channel my inner Athena and charm locals while taking part in the active night life. Next time, like I always say, I’d save more money on gifts!

 

 

Here’s me, trying to model

 

My time in Athens was short. I didn’t even scratch the surface. I got the tourist view — Not an insight to Greek culture or an insider’s view. But that small 56 hour snap shot of the archeological playground certainly left a lasting impression on my perspective of time and on my curiosity just as its left a lasting impression on the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eating 1 euro gyros on the streets of Athens

 

 

Our little photographer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The model

 

The photographer

 

 

 

 

 

 

Awe striking Athens by night

 

 

We’re just goofing around. The photos below remind me of a Gap advertisement.

 

In Destinations, Europe, France on
January 16, 2013

Living The Dream: MLK, Jr. Day In Portes Du Soleil, France

Beautiful snowy Alps views taken from the top of the French Alps in Portes Du Soliel
clBonjour y’all!  Dr. MLK, Jr. Weekend is always the Annual Black Ski Weekend. Even for those who cannot attend official events, the extended holiday weekend draws African-Americans to the slopes for fellowship and camaraderie.  Living in Germany doesn’t pause tradition.  For the four-day Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Day weekend, I went on a trip to  Portes du Soleil, a ski community on the Swiss-French border.  
 
With 13 Ski resorts (8 French, 5 Swiss), 307 runs, 200 chair lifts, cute villages spanning 372 miles (650KM) of Ski Community, and two mountain cultures all under one ski pass —  Portes du Soleil is an Ultimate Winter Sports Wonderland. You cannot say you’re an avid skier without making Portes du Soleil your winter holiday destination at least once. But, I guarantee once you get there, you will want to keep returning.   Here are all the reasons why I love skiing in Portes du Soleil.
 
 

The Alps

I absolutely adore spending time in the Alps! They take my breath away no matter the season or the country I view them. 
 
 
 
You can ski over to the Swiss side, but make sure you spend your money on the French side…it’ll go further that way.
 

TARIFS-DU-13-AU-21-AVRIL-2024-1.pdf (portesdusoleil.com)

 

Charming French Towns

Unfortunately, I had to spend most of this weekend hotel-bound writing a gosh-darn research paper for the final class of my Master’s program while everyone else hit the slopes.  However, La Chapelle is the perfect, quiet place in the Alps to post up in a coffee shop and write all day. 

My ski extraordinaire pal, Lucia
The Church in which the ski town was named after.
Fondu party in the Apres Ski

French and Swiss Après-ski Culture

Après-ski is one of the most memorable parts of a ski vacation. During the day, everyone disperses based on their skill level, but in the evening, when the slopes, close friends can all come together to hash out the day’s most memorable events over food and drinks.  We had a fondue night where we made a meal out of dipping pieces of bread, veggies, and meats in warm cheese. Wine flowed freely as wine should when you’re in France, and the laughter got louder with crazy plans to take a photo in the blizzard in our bathing suits. this crazy plan never manifested but it sure was fun to discuss.

The name of the town

The Chapple that the town was named after…Which, by the way, is the comedian Dave Chapple’s name…it’s French!

These photos were taken on the day I stayed in a coffee shop to write my paper. Of course it was a beautiful clear sky day.

La Chapelle

This is one of my favorite ski resorts because it had a variety of slopes for all skill levels. One green run was four kilometers long with gentle back and fourth curves perfect for practicing. Not only that, there were several green runs for me to practice on.

The sun shines bright against a blue ski in French Alps  in  Portes du Soleil. evergreen strees on the snowy slopes.

I pretty much decided I graduated from the basic ski instruction. I don’t need to spend 60 euro for someone to tell me how to  “pizza” and  “french fry” anymore. I just want to practice on my own. I was bored and I felt like it wasted a whole day when I could have been doing trial and error an finding by own way on longer runs.

French Alps in Portes du Soleil
I just can’t get enough of the Alps, Spring, Summer, fall, or snow-capped winter. They are just breath-taking.
Sunny blue Sky views of the wintery French Alps during the ski season from on top of the mountains.

More Apres Ski, or After Ski, going on in the bed and breakfast hot tub.

Of course, we’ve got Alabama men and Kentucky men trying to stream football games!
Me doing homework as I wait for the dinner festivities to commence.
Oh the goofy men I associate with.
Students in French Alps in Portes du Soleil
This guy was working on his PhD in engineering and took a day off from skiing as well.
I don’t know what it is but it was delish!
New friends, cute couple from Bama.
 

This ski town is joined with the city of Evian. You know, like the water. In fact, Evian water comes out of the tap here. It’s so fresh, so ean!

Life is but a dream. I am so glad I have the opportunity to celebrate Martin Luther King Day in such a beautiful place with great friends.

In Austria, Destinations, Europe on
December 13, 2012

Southern Belle On Skis

I don’t know a single Southerner who grew up on skis. In fact, I can only name two Southern folks who claim to participate in any type of outdoor winter sport be it skating, hockey, skiing, snowboarding or that weird Olympic sport were you push a rock around on ice. The south has two professional hockey teams (in Nashville and Atlanta) and I’m willing to bet all the players come from outside the south. When it’s cold in the south, we just prefer to stay in doors. But for some reason, when passing by a ski shop while on a holiday gift shopping excursion prompted my best buddy to ask, “Do you want to go skiing tomorrow?” I said yes.

Everyone in Europe seems to be a skier or snowboarder so such a question is commonplace in Stuttgart.  The Austrian and Swiss Alps are two driving hours away so spur of the moment ski trips happen all winter. Back home, skiing is quite a planning undertaking which requires plane tickets, requested time off from work, and hotel reservations. My family talked about skiing at Paoli Peaks one winter. That’s about as far as it went. So here I am, closer to turning 30 than I am 20 and I am making decisive measures to strap on skis for the first time in my life.

Getting the Gear
According to my avid skier beau, who grew up skiing in Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado, nothing can ruin a great ski day faster than being improperly dressed.  So we stepped into the discount ski shop to buy pants and a jacket. It was then that I learned that maybe I hated the snow so much because I just haven’t been properly taught to stay warm.  I was reared by a Kentucky mama and an Alabama daddy so when it snowed we hunkered down and rode out the treacherous storm in the house by the fire place or kerosene heaters! If we did venture out, my parents would have my sister and I wearing so many layers of clothes that we waddled like the Michelin man and our limbs stood out away from our bodies like a gingerbread man cookie.

Amazing after centuries of inhabiting inclement weather regions, humans have unlocked the mystery of o the art and science of staying warm and dry in the snow.  I never knew such a thing was possible! And get this… it can be done in only need three layers!

1. Do long johns (thermal) or under armor for your first layer.
2. Next do an over layer like a turtle neck, sweater, or sweatshirt.
3. Your final layer includes your water proof ski pants and ski jacket.
Viola! You’ll stay warm and you can still move around.

Tips: If you get wet, head to the lodge because you have no chance of staying warm. You don’t want to wear jeans either. They allow you to get wet and restrict you from movement. I never guessed you could also get hot while skiing. Skiing is a work out, you can sweat so you need to be able to open and vent your ski pants or jacket.

Thin socks are a Godsend. Your ski boots will keep you warm enough. If you layer socks or wear think wool ones you risk cutting off circulation and getting cold.  You’ve got to be able to wriggle your toes. Some ski socks come with padding on the shins to protect you while you lean against the boots.   Ski gloves, goggles, face mask to keep your cheeks and chin warm on cold windy days.  Just like when you ride a bike, wear a helmet! This can save your life no matter how good you get.

So, after mixing and matching colorful pants with different jackets I settled on the first jacket I tried on, a bright, sunny one with white pants.  This unplanned purchase was justified by my lack of winter clothing and their versatility of being able to wear them off the slopes.

Getting to the Slopes

So Sunday rolled around and we journeyed two hours south to Oberjoch for my first go on skies ever. The ride to Oberjoch was one I had made several times in the summer but it was absolutely gorgeous with snow gracing the evergreens and mountains.  The GPS claimed we were at our destination at the bottom of the mountain but we had to continue up the curvy roads to the resort.  In The States, ski resorts are all inclusive where you can lodge, buy your lift tickets, and rent your gear all in one place. Not so in Germany.  There’s a company that rents ski gear, then another company that owns lifts, and you have to find your own hotel and restaurant.  We’d come one week too early for the season opening. No lessons were available at the ski school.  There were no lifts, most of the runs were not open, but amazingly, the mountains were active and I was eager to add to the activity. Expectation Management 

While I was being strapped in my boots by the ski rental employee, I watched this adorable little tot who couldn’t have been any older than three years and whose parents were calling her Cassandra, pick up her mini skis and toss them over her shoulder and strut out the door like a pro.  We handed the Kasse (Cashier) 18 euros to rent the skis, poles, and a helmet and headed out behind little Cassie.  If this little tot could confidently go onto the slopes I was sure I could do the same. To me, being an adult on the bunny hill is about as ego bruising as having to play “Twinkle twinkle” as an adult at piano recital. I’d rather skip the right hand only songs and jump straight to Chopin’s Opus 64 No.1 “Petit Chien” or, in ski terms, skip the bunny hill and head straight toward the Black Diamond run. I envision myself as a super woman who, with a little time, can conquer anything.  I realized as soon as I put my skis on that that goal was a serious optimism.  Probably the most humbling of experiences. Skiing encouraged expectation management. Let me tell you what you can expect within your first 15 minutes on the runs:

  • You will not be skipping the bunny hill.
  • Even tough, coordinated, athletic Belles will fall down. A lot.
  • It takes a lot of energy to get up. It’s worse than falling in ice skates.
  • Six-year-olds will show off cool karate kicks in their skies while you are still trying to get off the ground.
  • You will be embarrassed, frustrated, leaning toward self doubt and start thinking skiing is a terrible lame sport that you will never get into.
  • You only have two speeds as a beginner, “too slow” and “too fast.”
  • Good news is, it doesn’t take long to get straightened out and gain confidence. Just like riding a bike, you’ll fall off a few times but soon you’ll be riding with no hands!

How to Have a Good First Ski Experience
I was fortunate to have an expert skier as a friend willing to give me private, focused lessons. And fortunate that most slopes were closed so he had no choice but to pay attention to me rather than running off to the Black Diamond runs. A patient, free instructor who doesn’t take it for granted that you know anything is a plus. Make sure you are appropriately dressed because skiing is no fun when you’re miserable.

First, I had to learn the most basic of the basics: how to snap in and out of the skis and walk in the boots.  Then it was just being able to stand up on flat ground that became a challenge. It’s like when you first learn to drive a stick shift, you become very aware when the ground is not flat because you’ll roll backward. Same of the skis. Every little incline, inclines your mind wouldn’t readily notice, I was sliding— sometimes backward, or sideways.  Then after a seminar about keeping my skies parallel like French fries to move fast and turned in like a pizza wedge to slow down I took my first downhill adventure. It went a little something like this:
BFF: French Fry!
Me: I’m doin’ it! I’m doin’ it!
BFF: Good!
Me: Whooa, Whoa! Too fast! Too Fast!
BFF: You’re not going to fast
Me: Too fast!
BFF: Pizza wedge! Pizza Wedge!
Me: Ahhh!
Crash! I hurl myself into a pile of snow to slow myself down as a German two year-old bundled up in a florescent striped onesie parka waves at me as she slides by on a pink toboggan sled.

 

This went on for a few more times.  It was frustrating. It was then that I thought to myself, I don’t foresee myself ever being good at this sport and no one likes something they’re not good at.  I spent time accidentally sliding backwards, accidentally skiing up hill, and learning that trying to get up after falling takes a lot of energy.  I started to resent the preteens that whizzed past doing kung fu moves in the air and landing on their feet and envied the toddlers who made it all the way down a slope on their parent’s leash. One little girl in particular was fussing in German at her parents who held on to a leash behind her.  I imagined she was saying, “I can do it all by myself!”

 

A kind German man offered his words of encouragement to me, “Next week you’ll be up there” he pointed up the mountains. He explained how he was just like me five years ago.  That was encouraging and I appreciated his words (I should have let him know that).  Everyone starts at the bottom.  Even Jimi Hendrix sounded like a hopeless child when he started playing the guitar. The challenge of gliding down steep mountains like a pro seemed overwhelming but even pros started on the bunny hill. In the future there will be powder, bumps, and steep drops but for now, I just need to learn how to maintain control of myself on skies. I also realized that without the ski lifts running, I needed to learn to conserve energy.  Being physically fit is important because this sport is deceivingly active.  It looks so simple.  Having to march back up snowy hills kinda detracted from the incentive of going down.

Toward the end of the day I slowly gained more confidence and control and skiing slowly became more fun.  I could stop when I wanted to and turn the direction I wanted. I certainly don’t foresee skiing becoming popular among southern folks any time soon but I will be returning to the slopes this weekend with a professional instructor and with operational ski lifts for round two of Southern Belle’s skiing adventures! Tell you more about it later! Tschüss!