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In Destinations, Montana, United States on
September 28, 2015

Ranch Life Part II: Fun On The Ranch

I‘m not going to lie.  I came to Montana with visions of cowboy grandeur. I imagined being the star of my own country song. I’m talking about a good 1990s-style country song, not these of today where, for some reason, women always tend to be barefoot. When did this become a thing guys are in to? Back in my day it was snake skin boots made by Calvin Klain, now it’s naked feet.  Anyway, I envisioned all the dreamy imagery evoked from  songs like the Dixie Chicks’ “Wide Open Spaces” and “Cowboy Take Me Away.” I’d be standing in a blue sundress and boots spinning around in a field of golden grain as a camera pans around from above in slow motion. I’d frolic around a mountain covered in flowers a la the opening scenes of Little House on the Prairie. I imagined splashing in a creek with friends. “Fishing in the Dark” by the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, Should’ve Been a Cowboy, Garth Brook’s Rodeo, Sarah Evans’ Born to Fly and really, who wouldn’t want to be the girl in a chevy truck when it happens to get tuck on a back road with her sweetie after hearing Taylor Swift reminisce about it?  All of these songs absolutely romanticized my vision of The West and I wanted to capture it all in picture.  I mean, how could I even think  Montana could even live up to my high expectations?
I’ve said it over and over, there’s no shortage of things to do on a ranch.  Most of these activities…like worming sheep, don’t quite lend themselves to mimicking images from a country video.  And while a lot of those things to do are labor-intensive — wake up early to make sure all the animals have breakfast…300 sheep, tons of cattle, horses, chickens, the pin of injured or sick animals, the dogs and puppies, and the adorable orphaned calves — there’s still fun to be had.

I asked a French Engineering student spending a summer abroad on the ranch why she chose Montana of all places in America to choose. She responded that Montana is the horse capitol.  Being a Kentucky girl, I almost lost my wit hearing this. And so  I responded like any Kentuckian would respond. Which she accurately replied, “If I wanted to ride English, I could have  stayed in France.” And that’s true. While I know there’s plenty of western horseback riding going on in Kentucky, I’ve only been around English so, from my perspective, Kentucky is more English-riding centered.  The raising of horses is different, mostly because of the terrain and weather. There’s a relationship between Montana and Kentucky in the horse industry. I learned that the majority of Kentucky derby winners are bred out of Montana.  Anyway, for this Kentucky girl, it was just a dream to spend a week riding.  You gotta recognize the privilege when work is disguised as fun.

The People and Animals

Videos of puppies and little kids can easily waste a way a day. Same thing happens in real life when you’ve got an energetic, pre-schooler and a litter of puppies on the ranch. This little cutie, never the shy one, came right up to me and introduced himself and the adults around him (that I’d already met) and led me by the hand to his pack of puppies. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend a few hours of an afternoon than with little fella and his buddies.  Spending time talking with the many, interesting people the ranch attracts is plenty fun enough.

 

He asked me to take a photo and replied, “That turned out nice didn’t it?”  Such a doll.

Rodeos

Before going to Montana I had a girl talk over calzones with one of my favorite Texans, about my excitement about the western lifestyle and living on an Ranch. She was already an expert and broke down cowboy culture. Now, when I think of equestrian events, my first frame of reference is the Kentucky derby,  which is the social highlight of spring.  It is the culmination of weeks of shopping for the perfect sundress and finding accenting but comfortable heels, and hours of searching for the perfect head topper. Fashion isn’t the focus for most at Rodeos.  In fact, there’s a special name for girls who are focused on the fashion.  Buckle Bunny. These are the girls that are a little bit too gussied up to be going just to watch a guy get knocked around on a bull or bronco. So those fully ingrained in this culture travel to the big shows and they follow the rodeo, town to town and get to know the riders at after parties.  I never considered there were rodeo groupies. I guess if there are cyber groupies, then there can certainly be groupies for the cowboys too. Rodeos make for great people watching once you know the characters.  And here’s where Garth’s Rodeo and Toby’s Should’ve Been a Cowboy came to life.

 

As luck would have it, Arabella and I made friends with two local charmers who volunteered (or got volun-told…I’m not sure which is more accurate) to take us to the rodeo in Cody, Wyoming.  No one who really knows Rodeos gets over-excited about the Cody, Wyoming Rodeo. As one of my local hosts explained, “Nothing that happens every night is special.”  Cody is for the tourist. Not the cowboys.  Rodeos tend to only be worth a pro’s time if they payout handsomely for a win.  However, Cody is a great starter rodeo for first time riders and first time viewers.

In rodeo, you’ve got several events.  There’s tie-down roping, team roping, steer wrestling, saddle bronc riding, bareback bronc riding, bull riding and barrel racing.  Barrel Racing and maybe team roping are the only events I could envision me actually doing. In addition to the timed events, there’s plenty of other forms of entertainment. The MCs at Cody were comedians. Made me shake my head with how pitiful their jokes were…they sounded like two dad’s who think they are so funny but the boys were were with were cracking up.  I just rolled my eyes and shook my head. There was a guy dressed like a cow dancing that got me to break my baring and the way the rodeo got the crowd involved was pretty entertaining.

After the rodeo we hit the town. Sheridan Ave in Cody reminds me of Broadway in Nashville, without the population. We started at the Silver Dollar Saloon in the Irma Hotel. The Irma is a historical hotel named after Buffalo Bill’s daughter.  Just being in it you can imagine the cowboys and ladies in red velvet of the Old West.  We moved on after a a drink (and after we witnessed a middle aged couple forget they were in public) to the Silver Dollar down the road and across the street. This place had a younger atmosphere and pool tables. We played (and trash talked) until the bar closed.  It was a fun, comfortable, crowd-free time out on the town.

The next morning after loading up on giant pancakes at a cafe on Sheridan Ave we hit up the Cody Museum and got a history lesson on the Old West, Buffalo Bill, a seriously expansive arsenal of historic riffles, and regional Native American history.  Then we went window shopping. All the cowboy gear has something like a 100 percent tourist mark up.

I loved these boots! On the left we have $15K boots (with a sign that says do not touch. Yea right, I’m touching) and on the right $2K. They belong to the wife of the boot maker. Collection plate/ Go-Fund Me link coming soon.

 

We returned to our Montana ranch taking the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway (Wyoming Highway 296).  This winding highwayfollows the route taken by Chief Joseph as he led the Nez Perce Indian out of Yellowstone toward Canada during the 1877 U.S. Cavalry attack. He and his surviving warriors ended up being “deported” by William T. Sherman from his nation to Kansas where he died.  This is stuff I never learned in school. The views on the route are breathtaking but the winding roads do have the tendency to create motion sickness in small cars. Careful!  The route added about 45 minutes to our time and passed through a few ski resort towns (like Red Lodge) that would be idea for stopping for the night if needed.

Just charming views. We had to keep stopping so I could take pictures.

Fun on the Ranch

Sure,  I didn’t have to travel all the way to Montana to play and climb on hay bales but, hey, it’s been a while. Whether it’s climbing on hay, sitting on straw in the barn having conversations about dreams, adventures, and life, or spotting the wild life while outdoors, playing in the country is fun. I think I had so much fun doing regular mundane, country things because it reminded me of home so much.

The
Beartooth Scenic Byway is accessible from the south via the Chief
Joseph Scenic Byway (State Hwy. 120). The Wyoming section is 47 miles in
length and requires a minimum drive time of one hour. – See more at:
https://www.wyomingtourism.org/things-to-do/detail/The-Beartooth-Highway-An-All-American-Road/7932#sthash.xuWpa3cT.dpuf
The
Beartooth Scenic Byway is accessible from the south via the Chief
Joseph Scenic Byway (State Hwy. 120). The Wyoming section is 47 miles in
length and requires a minimum drive time of one hour. – See more at:
https://www.wyomingtourism.org/things-to-do/detail/The-Beartooth-Highway-An-All-American-Road/7932#sthash.xuWpa3cT.dpuf
The
Beartooth Scenic Byway is accessible from the south via the Chief
Joseph Scenic Byway (State Hwy. 120). – See more at:
https://www.wyomingtourism.org/things-to-do/detail/The-Beartooth-Highway-An-All-American-Road/7932#sthash.xuWpa3cT.dpuf
The
Beartooth Scenic Byway is accessible from the south via the Chief
Joseph Scenic Byway (State Hwy. 120). – See more at:
https://www.wyomingtourism.org/things-to-do/detail/The-Beartooth-Highway-An-All-American-Road/7932#sthash.xuWpa3cT.dpuf
The
Beartooth Scenic Byway is accessible from the south via the Chief
Joseph Scenic Byway (State Hwy. 120). – See more at:
https://www.wyomingtourism.org/things-to-do/detail/The-Beartooth-Highway-An-All-American-Road/7932#sthash.xuWpa3cT.dpuf

Hunting
Montana is a hunter’s paradise. White tail deer just frolicked on front lawns like no big deal. I don’t think there was a single day of the week that I didn’t see an elk. I just kept thinking, my dad would love this place. I love the wild life here. You saw just about every American animal (except alligators) just wild and free. Now, it was not hunting season in August but it seems like the Game Warden takes their job pretty seriously up here. The game warden sets up decoy deer trying to catch poachers in a sting. I’ve been around hunters all my life in Kentucky and just have never heard of anyone ever encountering something like that.

 

Elk on the side of the Road. They make high pitched trumpet sounds not expected for a beast of this size.

Night Life

As one native said while she was trying to give me directions, the bars are the landmarks. Absarokee has a population of 1,200.  That is not to say the night life is a bust.  5 Spot Bar was my first introduction to Absarokee nightlife and thus became my instant fave. When you are the new girl in a one stoplight town, everyone in the bar comes to introduce themselves to you and try to figure out why on Earth you chose to stop in their town. Kinda made me wonder what it would be like to go to a bar in my own hometown considering I’d never lived that since I’ve been 21.

Just across the street is a bar geared toward an older crowd called Chrome. Then at the edge of town is Legends with a dance floor and Karaoke and swings on the covered porch.  It’s the place to go with a sweetheart and to hear stories about Jesus and Alcohol. Only deal is this bar is on the edge of town and there are no Taxis so a quality designated driver is a must.

Fun on the River

If a town is lucky enough to have  river flowing through it, it’s residents are lucky to have built-in entertainment. We toyed with the idea of spending the weekend whitewater rafting or just casually rafting down the Stillwater River but considering my aversion to cold, we decided against. Instead, we went fly fishing.  For something like $30 purchased at a gas station at the edge of town, I got my two-day fishing license.

Now, I’d done my share of fishing before.  Just cast the line and wait. Heck, you can put a bell on the line, walk away and do something else and still catch a channel cat.  There’s not much to it.  In fly fishing, that i not the case. You have so many variables to negotiate. Now, for the first time, I could see how fishing is a sport.   My line kept getting caught up.  I got frustrated.  After the sun and the temperature dropped I caught my one little mini fish, I quit.

That’s not to say I didn’t have a blast.  I was laughing at Ty for falling in the water and loving the chivalry of being piggy backed across the river. Oh, and the other pair catching seven fish before I even got my gosh dang line in the water which at the time was not fun but looking back, was quite comical. Every other minute we’d hear, “Caught one” across the way.

 

I couldn’t capture all the fun I had with the local gentleman and my new international friend on camera to document for the blog. One, for fear I’d drop my camera in the river. And reason number two, and most important, the best times can’t be documented. I couldn’t stop the laughs and jokes and focus on fishing to go run, get a camera and focus on the posing for what I’d pretend were candid shots.   I couldn’t focus on documenting the moment, I had to be present and just enjoy the moment that I’ll make into a memory.

It was as I looked at the silhouettes on the river in front of the pink setting sun that I realized it. I had been in the middle of my own country song all week.  Pulling up to the ranch in my Ram meeting a boisterous fella roping sheep, road trips to rodeos, trash talking and joking while playing pool, playing on the river, and the conversations and laughs at small town bars are the stuff old school country songs are made of. Two charming, western gentlemen hosting two out-of-state girls chaperoned by two water lovin’ dogs enjoying the final days of summer together. Just right out of a country song.
In Destinations, Montana, United States on
September 20, 2015

Ranch Life Part I: The Chores

I was really board and unimpressed with Montana.  It was miles and miles of golden fields. And while beautiful, they got old after 30 miles. While driving north, I even sent a group text to my friends on day two of my visit saying I would not be coming back to visit Montana. Dixie Chicks’ “Wide Open Spaces” kept playing over and over in my head. This is where they were talking about.  I  was so bored! Montana was just a colder, bigger Kansas (not happenin).

I’d traveled through all timezones in the past two days and the jet lag caught up with me. I was exhausted before the sun came down.  After my experience sleeping in my car at Antelope Canyon and Bryce National Park, I thought nothing about climbing into the back seat of my truck at Glacier National Park for the night.

Golden fields on both sides of a gravel highway for miles on end!

The next morning I journeyed from West glacier to east Glacier. However, the park was on fire in many places and the smoke destroyed the visibility. I’m sure here were mountains behind the think white fog but I couldn’t see much anything.

Make sure to bring your passport. For no particular reason, you might want to cross the boarder into Canada. Might as well, you’re already there if you’re at Glacier national park. I didn’t bring mine and those Canadians didn’t just let me waltz into their country. Boo. They did allow me to take this selfie and import the Mt Dew I bought at the little shop across the border.

 

Also, make sure to bring fall layers. Even in August, it’s colder than the heart of an assclown who breakups with a girl by changing the name in his facebook relationship status.

 

   

I drove from glacier hitting up all the major towns on the way. Did you know there are only three Best Buys in the entire state gigantic of Montana?  I needed one for my camera battery charger. Had to go all the way to Billings to get it.  Anyway, along the way I kept being delayed by free grazing live stock.  First thing I thought was to ind the farmers and alert them that their cows were out like I’d do back home. But then, there were no houses in sight.  That’s just how they do in Montana. Cows have freedom to roam. Make sure you are driving the speed limit. These cows come out of nowhere.

 

Finally getting to see the American Buffalo!

 

After a day of driving then stopping in Big Timber for then night (really friendly sweet folks at River City End), I  made it to the ranch in Absarokee.  Then the boredom just vanished.  When you are on a ranch, you never have a shortage of things to do.

Not a Dude Ranch
Agro-Tourism is being coming the newest trend in travel. I explained the concept to a friend who said he already knew all about it from an episode of, The Office.  It’s basically activity-based tourism to experience agricultural life first hand. As some of the locals explained, I basically came on vacation to do the type of chores that they grew up dreading. I guess it did kind of have the Tom Sawyer  feel to it… just like paying to white-wash a fence.

Now, when I made booked the trip with Montana Bunkhouses, Karen, the organizer, wanted to make sure I knew what I was getting into.  She organizes hands-on ranching, experience vacations for a community of twenty Montana cattle ranching families. Karen basically served as my Montana travel agency telling me how much time to spend in the different national parks and which ranch will serve my goals.

She emphasized this wasn’t a Dude Ranch. Dude Ranches, as she explained, was the Disney land version of ranching.  Although it is a great experience, it is all entertainment focused. A working ranch is authentic to real life on a ranch without the fanfare, glitz, and Hollywood, romanticized glamour of a Dude Ranch. On a working ranch, you are going to get dirty.  After explaining some of the experiences I could expect, I had to assured her that I was a southern country girl and totally fine getting dirty.  Besides, I wanted to see the difference between Montana ranches and Kentucky farms.

I’ll be honest. I was a bit in shell shock when I first arrived on the ranch.  The folks were already in the mists of worming sheep.  Let me tell you a thing or two about worming sheep. First you have to catch them. Which takes team work and athleticism. You may think you caught one, then it keeps running off with you on his back.  I don’t think there’s much of a special technique to do it. Just grab one by the wool. If you have cowboy skills, you may be able to rope one. While forcing medicine in his mouth, it is also a good time to trim the poop off his bottom. You see, balls of poop collect in their wool which will eventually attract maggots to their tails. So two must wrangle and hold while the third brave soul clips the poop balls off. That way, you can tell who has been medicated by who has a clean bottom. Doing this for 300 sheep takes the better part of a day. There is no way to do this without getting dirty. Sheep sh!t is also a challenge to get out of jeans. Don’t wear your best.

If you have ever seen the cute film “Babe” from back in the day, I now can attest that sheep are definitely stupid, just as they said in the movie. They just run about in packs tripping over stuff making a bunch of noise, getting their heads stuck in fences.  I’m not all that impressed with them. They are kinda boring creatures.

The chores on the ranch change by the season. In the
 spring, the calves and lambs are born. They need help during delivery, vaccines, and weening. In the summer it’s important to maintain the health of the animals. Bringing the cattle home is a highlight of the fall happens globally except in Montana, it’s without all the fests as in the Alps.  Then there’s fence fixing and overall maintenance and management. Of course, daily the all the animals on the farm need to be fed.first thing in the morning and then as the sun goes down. Chickens, horses, cows, sheep, and goats can be quite the undertaking.  My favorite chore was feeding the adorable orphaned calves. Then there was a this attention hog of a goat. He couldn’t stand for the calves to have more attention than him and he forced my hand to rub on him. He was such a sweetie, I obliged.  He reminded me of my dog back home.

 

Now country girls and cow girls are not synonymous, however, with a little work a country girl can make a graceful transition into a cowgirl.  Scarlett O’Hara was a country girl. Annie Oakley is a cowgirl. Being a cowgirl is a workout in itself.

Should’ve Been A Cowboy

On one occasion, we rode up into the mountains to look for lost cows.  The cows had come down from the pastures in the mountains but not all of them came home.  That’s when I realized I have never ridden a horse with a purpose before. Any other time it was purely entertainment…like on a boring trail or in an arena. Here, I was doing some real cowboy stuff.  There is more to cowboying than the 1791 Supply Co. swagger.  It’s a lot of physical, time consuming work. We had to ride because there was no other way to get up into the altitude. You couldn’t four-wheel it, couldn’t drive it, and definitely couldn’t walk it. We drove bout an hour to the trail head of a national forest. Tiny, the man of the ranch who wasn’t at all tiny, gave me a quick safety briefing.  “If Lorena sees a bear, just turn her around real quick away from the bear.”  Record scratch…and pause…ummm…a bear!? What is happening?  What have I gotten myself into! I had not even considered there were bears in the region. Apparently, a horse has the tendency to panic, buck the rider off, and keep going at the sight of a bear. We took a small band of real cowboys, and aggro-tourists up into the mountains then separated into two smaller groups  in different directions off the trails looking for the lost cows. At this point, the lyrics to Toby Keith’s “Should’ve Been a Cowboy” play over and over in my mind.  My horse was awesome. She responded well to commands.  My partner’s horse, on the other hand, had some anxiety attacks attacks going on.  While it was a good horse for working with cows, it wasn’t the best for riding also steep rugged terrain.  Well, the temperature dropped in the mountains and the rain began and honestly…cowboying stopped being fun.  Rain or shine, the work of a cowboy must get done.

 

 

 

Ranch vs. Farms

Just as there are different jobs in the medical community, or in the defense community, there are different jobs in the agriculture community and the differences between ranchers and farmers end to get muddled.  I arrived on the ranch thinking perhaps it was just a regional vocabulary difference, but no, the functions are entirely different. Ranchers raise cattle or sheep. Just two animals.  Ranches tend to be out west where the soil is unsuitable for crop-growing.  Farms have a variety of fruit and vegetable crops and pigs, poultry, dairy cattle. As a child, I climbed and used my imagination on farm machinery.  Noticeably missing from the ranch was all the machines. There were no harvesters, balers, tractors tucked away in farm storage buildings. Ranchers use horses to do a lot of their work, or pack mules to carry loads into the mountains, or 4-wheelers.  On a ranch you may have several Ranchers’ livestock may free-grazing with other ranchers’ which is why branding your livestock is more prevalent than on farms. Farms use tagging (and perhaps also branding).  Farmers divide their operation up by fields or paddocks, ranchers by pastures. Fields tend to be smaller than pastures and geographically closer together.  Like when we on the search for cattle that never came home, we were an hour away from the house.  Ranchers wear cowboy hats while they work. Farmers wear baseball caps while working and may whip out a cowboy hat when they go dancing. So, when you’re at the dinner table blessing the hands that made your family’s meal possible, you are blessing the hands of a farmer for your grains, dairy, fruits and veggies, and a rancher for your lamb and beef!

This ranch is pretty dynamic in a business aspect. In addition to raising and selling livestock, providing ranch vacations, the farm also offers trail rides and fishing trips under the business name, Paintbrush Adventures.  Of course, this is just part of a day’s work. Even getting dozens of horses settled and ready for rides is a bit of work but it’s always fun when work disguises it’s self as play.

 

 

The Montana Bunkhouse website states that visitors come as guests but leave as friends and that is certainly true. Even just for I week, The leaders said I was a part of their lives and I agree, I was treated like family. I made friends that I know I’ll always have a connection.