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In Destinations, South America on
March 4, 2024

Riding the Waves: Top 10 Latin American Surf Towns

a collection of 4 surf inspired photos with the title is not only about conquering the waves but also about immersing yourself in the unique charm and landscapes that each surf town has to offer.

From Mexico to Chile and across the Caribbean, Latin America boasts some of the most stunning, diverse coastlines in the world, making it a surfer’s haven. Vibrant surf towns that offer incredible breaks and a unique cultural experience dot the region. If you were looking for a Latin American Surf towns to select for your surfing bucket list, you’ve come to the right place — without further adu, this is the top 10 surf towns in Latin America!

1. Puerto Escondido, Mexico

Puerto Escondido is the gem of Oaxaca’s Pacific coast. Zicatela Beach, known as the “Mexican Pipeline,” features powerful and consistent barrels that attract surf enthusiasts from around the globe. The town itself is a vibrant blend of Oaxacan culture, party vibes, and surf lifestyle, with plenty to offer those looking to ride the waves or soak up the local atmosphere. With six popular surfing neighborhoods, it’s no wonder this surf nest easily topped the list of surf towns in Latin America.

2. Chacahua, Mexico

Just 30 miles north of Puerto Escondido is the more remote Chacahua. Accessible only by boat, this tranquil surf town sits at the mouth of a stunning lagoon that lets out into the Pacific Ocean. The area’s uncrowded breaks make it an ideal destination for surfers seeking a more secluded experience. Chacahua’s natural beauty, Afro-Mexican culture, and relaxed vibe create a unique surfing haven for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of more popular Latin American surf towns.

3. Sayulita, Mexico

Further north, Sayulita, located on Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit, is a charming Latin American surf town with a bohemian flair. Surrounded by lush jungles and pristine beaches, Sayulita is a haven for surfers seeking a blend of adventure and relaxation. The waves at Playa Sayulita cater to surfers of varying experience levels, while the town’s vibrant art scene, boutique shops, and delicious street food add to its allure.

4. El Paredon, Guatemala

Just a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Antigua, Guatemala, El Paredon is an up-and-coming surf destination. With black sand beaches from at least five nearby volcanos, rustic vibes, and unadulterated coast lines El Paredon offers an intimacy that other, more established surf towns do not. You’ll want to go from November to April during the dry season. During the rainy season, the swells are only suitable for highly experienced surfers.

5. El Tunco, El Salvador

Named after the distinctive rock formation on its shoreline, El Tunco is El Salvador’s renowned surf destination. Also sporting black sand beaches, El Tunco calls itself Surf City and hosts surf tournaments throughout the year. From beginner-friendly breaks at Sunzal to more challenging waves at La Bocana, El Tunco offers a diverse range of surf spots. The vibrant nightlife and friendly atmosphere make it a favorite among travelers seeking a dynamic surf experience.

LatTwo pictures, one of a curly-haired black firl holding a surf board walking into the ocea. The other with two surf boards againt the wall. in American surf towns

6. San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

Situated along Nicaragua’s southwestern coast, San Juan del Sur has gained popularity for its laid-back atmosphere and diverse surf breaks. As far as Latin American surf towns go, this is one of the most economical choices for lessons in all of Latin America. From the beginner-friendly waves at Playa Maderas to the more advanced breaks at Playa Colorado, surfers of all levels can find their perfect spot. The town’s lively nightlife and welcoming community make it an ideal destination for both surfing and relaxation.

Check out the ideal wave for you: My Wave Finder | Where to Surf | Surfing Destinations

7. Montañita, Ecuador 

Montañita has earned a reputation as the country’s premier surf destination. This well-established surf spot attracts surfers with its consistent waves and weather year-round. Also known as a party town, there’s plenty of life happening off the waves as well. The lively atmosphere and eclectic mix of international travelers make Montañita a hub for surf enthusiasts seeking a vibrant community and a taste of Ecuadorian coastal culture.

8. Rincon, Puerto Rico

Renowned as the “Caribbean’s Surf Capital,” Rincon boasts a magnetic allure for surf enthusiasts worldwide. With its consistent waves and diverse surf breaks catering to all skill levels. From the famous Tres Palmas for experienced surfers to the gentle Sandy Beach for beginners, Rincon offers a dynamic surfing experience. The town itself exudes a laid-back charm, blending a rich surfing culture with vibrant local life. Surrounded by lush landscapes and adorned with stunning sunsets, Rincon epitomizes the perfect fusion of tropical paradise and a world-class surfing destination.

9. Vina del Mar, Chile

Vina del Mar, known for its beautiful beaches and cultural festivals, offers excellent surfing opportunities along its coastline. Renaca Beach is a popular spot for surfers, featuring consistent waves suitable for all skill levels. With its lively atmosphere, diverse dining options, and cultural attractions, Vina del Mar provides a well-rounded experience for surfers and travelers alike.

10. Huanchaco, Peru

With a surf heritage that spans 3,000 years, there is no surf town in the world like Huanchaco, Peru. Huanchaco is THE surf MECCA that all surfers must make a pilgrimage at least once. In 2014, the town was designated a World Surfing Reserve with the world’s first laws aimed at protecting waves. During the Huanchaco Surf Cup, surfers demonstrate the performance of the ancient reed surf crafts called “caballistos de totora.” Although the waves are good for surfing year-round, Chile’s winter months from May to October will offer the best experience. November to April will obviously be warmer, but also much rainier. The consistent, long, mellow waves at Playa El Elio make it an ideal spot for longboarding, while the town’s rich history and friendly locals add to the overall appeal. 

Latin America’s surf scene is not only about conquering the waves but also about immersing yourself in the unique charm and landscapes that each surf town has to offer. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer seeking challenging breaks or a novice looking to catch your first wave, the diversity of beaches in this region provide the perfect all you need to embark on an increbile journey on the waves and within yourself. Embrace the surf lifestyle and explore these top 10 Latin American surf towns to experience the thrill of riding the waves in Latin America.

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In Destinations, South America on
September 15, 2023

Prepare For High-Altitude Destinations Like A Pro

The title "Prepare Like A Pro for High-Altitude Destinations overlaid over a brown, mountainous Salta, Argentiana landscape

If you’ve never traveled to high-altitude destinations before– let me tell you, it has a way of humbling you. We’re talking about the kind of attitude that body slams you on arrival.  We’re talking about 6561 ft / 2000 meters above sea level. I’ve had my share of high altitudes. I have Breckenridge, Colorado (2926 meters/9599.73 feet), Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, (an elevation of 3,656 m/ 1,995 ft above sea level) and In Cusco, Peru (3399 meters/11,152 ft), under my belt. Here’s what I’ve learned: Genetics will be the main determiner of how well people adapt to high-altitude locations. However, let me show you how to reduce the impacts. Here are a few tips to help you prepare for high-altitude destinations like a pro:

  1. Be in good cardiovascular shape. In Uyuni, Bolivia, carrying my slightly heavy backpack from the car to my room on the same flower— a usually small task — had my heart beating like I ran a 4:30 minute mile.  My standard, casual stroll required breaks and time-outs because my heart beat fast.  When there is less oxygen, performing the simplest tasks will cause your heart to work overtime. Build your cardiovascular stamina by running (or swimming or HIT workouts) daily. Being able to run a 5K in 25 minutes or less will help.
  2. Ascend into higher altitudes gradually. Flying into a place like La Paz from the beach is going to mollywop you.  Instead, opt for a staged climb by ascending 1000 Feet (300 meters) per day. I did this when traveling from Salta, Argentina to Uyuni, Bolivia. I could tell the difference between the slow ascent to Bolivia and the abrupt ascent to Cusco from the Galapagos.
  3. Stay hydrated. Keep your body fueled. Remember, the O in H2O stands for Oxygen, which you need to get into your body in any form while in high in the sky.  
  4. Avoid caffeine and alcohol as these dehydrate. The effects of alcohol intensify in higher altitudes.
  5. Rest. Let me tell you if ever there was a time to take it easy, high-altitude destinations are the place. Be a lady of leisure (or restful renegade) for at least three days before planning physical activities. Your body is going to be working overtime internally. Give it rest.
High-Altitude Destinations
Images from my most recent trip to the Andes in Chile and Bolivia the past May!

6. Use sunscreen. Even in the cold. Even if you are melanin-rich. In high altitude, you will be getting direct exposure to the sun. Protect yourself. 

7. Ditto for Sunglasses. For the same reason.

8. Plan your high-altitude travel strategically. If you can, just stay in the high-altitude areas for the duration of your trip. For instance, plan your trip to Northern Chile, Peru, and Bolivia together rather than leave high-altitude and then return to a different high-altitude spot.

9. Ginkgo biloba or coca leaves can help you feel better when altitude inevitably kicks your butt.  Chew on them or use them as tea.  Be careful, coca leaves can cause a false positive for cocaine in drug tests.

10. Lotions, butters, & oils – Your skin will be dry. Your lips will be chapped. Nix the ash and stay moisturized.

There you have it! Follow these guidelines and your next trip to the Andes, Rockies, Himalayas or Alps will be as easy-peasy and you’ll be able to enjoy the entirety of your trip.

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In Destinations, Guatemala, North America, South America on
July 10, 2022

The Most Romantic Hotels In Antigua, Guatemala

a terrace in one of the most romatic hotels in antigua guatemala

Let me plan your next Beacation for you! Nothing sets the mood right for a romantic rendezvous like a luxurious, hotel with all the amenities and few distractions. This isn’t a sponsored post. When I visited these hotels, the light bulb went off. I thought...Oh, this is where I’d stay on a romantic holiday. For help building the perfect itinerary, check out this post for a long weekend. If you’re in Guatemala for a whole week, check this itinerary out. With no further ado, here are the four absolute most romantic hotels in Antigua, Guatemala.

El Convento Boutique Hotel

This is my absolute top choice of romantic hotels in Antigua, Guatemala. The exclusivity of a boutique hotel with limited guestrooms will always reign ideal for romance. The Convento offers that exclusivity with only 27, uniquely designed suites. Each has intricately hand-carved doors depicting an image from Antigua’s rich history. The contemporary colonial architecture and laid-back elegance of each room provide the perfect setting to focus on each other. Select a suite with a private, outdoor jacuzzi and fireplace. You’re going to want a whole day just hanging out at the hotel with each other. Fortunately, the dining menu kitchen and in-room services prevent you from having to stray too far. The boutique hotel is perfectly located in the heart of the city but offers a quiet and serene environment.

Another excellent choice is….

With its Spanish-Moorish architectural details and seclusion, The Pensativo House Hotel makes a great setting for a romantic hotel in Antigua, Guatemala.
I walked through and was like, “Are you serious?! this hotel is amazing!”

Pensativo House Hotel

Located in a quiet, more remote, residential part of town, this adults-only hotel will make you feel like part of the Spanish Colonial aristocracy. With its Spanish-Moorish architectural and design elements The Pensativo makes a choice location for hosting grand soirées and easy-going brunches. This 26-room boutique hotel offers an intimate hospitality experience. The hotel offers in-room spa and massage services. I can’t choose what I love more, the rooftop dining views or the food itself. Both are exquisite. Plus, it’s a sustainable property for you can enjoy guilt-free indulgence.

With only 7 immaculately appointed rooms Posada Del Angel is one of the most romantic hotels in Antigua

Posada Del Angel  

Right next door to Pensativo and tying for the second position is Posada del Angel This boutique only has 7 well-appointed suites providing guests with a personalized experience and first-class service. It’s almost as if you are personally invited to the home of a stylish dignitary. Each room is equipped with a fireplace. The Rose Suite is fit for a president — Bill Clinton once stayed here. The private terrace, extra large jacuzzi, and views make it baecation approved. I must point out that the doorframes were not carved out with tall people in mind. They’re 5’10” instead of the standard American door height of 80 inches (6’8”). The lap pool in the garden courtyard is pretty to use or just to view. This is the best place for private seclusion.

Casa Santo Domingo

Rounding out the list of top romantic hotels in Antigua, Guatemala is Casa Santo Domingo. This hotel and spa were built on an archeological site. The hotel is now the restoration project of the earthquake-ruined Convent of Santo Domingo, one of the largest convents in the world at one point. History nerds like me will appreciate the attention to detail in the historic preservation of this archeological site. Art and nature enthusiasts may welcome the art, terraces, panoramic views, pool, and spa. Everyone will love the dining experience. It’s first-class all the way. It welcomes more guests than boutique hotels so it’s a little less intimate. However, with it being a former holy place, there’s a centuries-old built-in chapel perfect for hosting weddings and it’s popular for wedding receptions and grand quinceanera fetes. The staff knows how to throw a party.

NEW! Villa Bokah

Since writing this article, I’ve become aware of an absolutely exquisite boutique hotel just a short walk outside of Antigua. Villa Bokah prides itself in creating romantic moments for its guest. With a charming row boat so you can channel your own lake scene like the uber-romantic scene from the Notebook. Th designers really had a field day with this space. It’s only been open a year and is part of a small luxury family of hotels in Guatemala. Although it is super continental, it maintains local, cultural touches.

With each of these hotels, be sure to have a phone call directly with the hotel to discuss the occasion and specific needs of the room. Perhaps a private balcony, panoramic views, in-room massage appointment pre-scheduled, or wine chilling when you arrive floats your boat. These hotels will make it happen for you.

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In Ecuador on
March 9, 2019

Sharing The Beach

An aquadic iguana rests on a rock just out of the Ocean in Ecuador.

“Dear God, they can swim!”

I screamed and almost drowned myself.

Anyone who knows me knows I am not particularly fond of reptiles— Especially the ones without shells. When I lived in SoCal, a lizard once pranced its way into my office. I took off running into my boss’s office, closed the door behind me, made sure it was locked, and made myself a human barricade to save us both from the vicious animal.  My boss looked up from his work, half concerned, half aware that I’m prone to goofiness.  I informed him of the situation. He went to rid my space of the intruder. I may have grown up in the country but crossing paths with snakes and lizards never grew on me.

Fast forward a year from that incident, I was enjoying a day under the San Cristóbal Island seas, and learning first hand that the iguanas I tried to avoid sunbathing on rocks, could swim. Go figure, the Galapagos Marine Iguana is the only sea-going lizard in the world. According to Charles Darwin, swimming may have become an adaptation of land iguanas that apparently drifted out to sea on logs and landed in the islands. For the iguanas, it was either adapt or die. So they evolved into swimmers.

  • low waves crash around Galapagos Marine Iguana basks, unbothered, on the beach
    Galapagos Marine Iguana basks, unbothered, on the beach

A huge, lava-ash colored lizard with a spiky back and bumpy head glided through the crystal blue waters swishing her tail behind her like a mini crocodile right past my face, unconcerned. Iguanas have no natural predators in the water. I, on the other hand, was concerned. Convinced that this unsightly creature must be a predator to me, I momentarily forgot I was indeed not a mermaid and opened my mouth to squeal, taking in all of the salty ocean into my lungs. I had to come up for air.

Popping my head out of the water, coughing and gasping for air, I regained my composure.  I watched another iguana, camouflaged on a black rock, hop into the sea and paddle nonchalantly with its head barely above the water. I was really ready to end the beach day right there.  Swimming lizards wasn’t something I was prepared to experience. I read up on swimming with giant Galapagos turtles but somehow missed the part of marine iguanas. 

Sea Lion couple sun bathe together on a beautiful beach with lava rocks and brilliant blue seas
Sea Lions sun bathe on Playa Carola

With the exception of a three-person family down the beach, I had the beach, Playa Punta Carola, to myself. That is of course, with the exception of the small family and huge iguanas. With the pristine white sand blazing, I packed my beach tote and left on a hunt to find a lizard-free beach. Perhaps a more populated beach would clear out the wildlife. Through paths lined by tall, lush vegetation I eventually made it to the Charles Darwin statue. The area had charming little coves and gentle waters.  I figured I can snorkel here.

However, I had to get past the crabs that covered the rocks leading to the pool and seemed to do karate kicks into the ocean. Swimming iguanas and jumping crabs, great!  I could just imagine my foot getting clipped by a crab and oozing out blood, making the long, hot walk along the equator back to my hotel miserable.  A cozy corner of the cove against the shady mountainous cliffs provided a bed to sleeping sealions.  San Cristóbal is a quiet island in the first place, but being in the off season left most beaches unoccupied by humans. Perhaps if I was there with a friend I could have been convinced to make the plunge, but I couldn’t convenience myself. I continued my search along the shore. Other beaches were overrun by wet-dog smelling sea lions.  I was finally forced to accept that I was going to be hard-pressed to find a shore without aquatic lizards.

Bright red crabs on beach lava rocks
Jumping Crabs!

This is what happens on a conservation site. 
In the Galapagos, animals are free to roam and be animals. They’re not confined to a location for the sake of human comfort and development. This is nothing like the beach environments I’ve been used to in South Carolina, Virginia, SoCal, Massachusetts or Florida.  Like the lizards had to evolve or go extinct, I needed to adapt or live a less adventurous vacation.  

I had to recognize, I am the intruder interrupting their beach time.

Iguanas look scarier than they are.  Animals that feed on algae growing on rocks do not eat or attack humans. Just like most people, if you mind your own business, animals are just as nice to you as you are to them.

We’re just going to be two predator-less creatures swimming and enjoying paradise together.

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In Destinations, Peru, South America on
July 10, 2017

10 Lessons From The Mountaintop

Lessons from the mountaintop_Machu_pichu_Globelleaffairs_ Four friends pose on top of the famed andes mountains

What I Learned While Climbing Machu Pichu

Climbing Mount Machu Pichu was a transformative experience. I did not expect to gain such a new perspective from this half-day excursion. Here are the lessons from the mountaintop a gained from this experience.

Mental Preparation

 
 
“ The beauty of the mountain is hidden for all those who try to discover it from the top, supposing that, one way or an other, one can reach this place directly. The Beauty of the Mountain reveals only to those who climbed it…” – Antoine de Saint-Exupery
 
 
 
 
 
 
The climb is limited to 400 people per day, staggered in two groups. The first group starts at 0700 and the next at 1000. The peak closes at noon for ceremonial reasons. My group’s ascent started just after 0700. We registered our names in a book just in case search and rescue were needed if we didn’t return. I’m glad we started early. We didn’t have to yield to anyone coming down the mountain and didn’t have to rush to the peak before it closed.
 
I was not mentally prepared for how strenuous this climb would be. First of all, folks kept calling it a hike. Let us be clear. This is not a hike. A hike is when you walk through a nice path in nature with gradual ups and downs across the terrain. The trails at Yellow Creek Park in my hometown are hikes. This was a climb. This was mountaineering. This was alpinism. There were no gradual slopes, this was straight up to the top of the Andes Mountain range. I underestimated this challenge.  Had I not been told to bring plenty of water, I would have brought 20 oz. instead of a liter and 20 ounces. I only had one Kind Bar. I should have packed a few. And a sandwich to eat at the top if I’m being completely honest. I could have packed one of those lemonade mixers to add electrolytes in my water.   Your body needs to be properly fueled for this hike and I barely covered my bases.
 
Luckily, other folks on the trail were prepared. One guy had a whole banana bunch that he shared. Others passed along granola. Next time I do a hike like this, I want to be one of those people who have plenty to share. I didn’t bring a ponytail holder. I packed a jacket that I quickly didn’t need, My DSLR Camera, and my iPhone.
 
Physical Preparation
It took me about 90 minutes to climb 650 meters (2,139 feet) above the Machu Pichu ruins and 3080 meters (10,017 feet) above sea level.  I struggled with the altitude. I haven’t had a consistent fitness regimen in about a year. I was irritated with myself that I couldn’t keep up with this Swedish guy and New Zealand girl who were studying abroad at UC Irvine. I never considered that others were conquering their fear of heights or experiencing anxiety attacks at the sight of the narrow paths with steep drop-offs.
 
 
My father considered a walk among the mountains as the equivalent of churchgoing. – Aldous Huxley
                                                                                                                                   
 
Spiritual and Emotional Preparation
 
Being an introvert, I like time to reflect during the hours spent alone on the mountain. Mountains are great for that sort of thing. I love the stillness of empty mountain trails. The Incas were all about being connected to Earth. I think mountains offer a closer connection to God. Moses encountered God on Mount Sinai, the Prophet Elijah encountered God on Mount Carmel, Jesus was tempted on a mountain, appointed his Twelve on a mountain, delivered his most grand sermon, and underwent transfiguration all on mountains. High places, across many faiths, are always sacred. Certainly, when climbing mountains you undergo a mental, physical, emotional, and spiritual change. You are not the same person you were before you started your climb.
 
Walk Carefully/ Narrow Path sign at Machu Pichu
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Pumped up on Outdoorphins, my friend, E, chattered on and on about this great feat. From the summit back down to the base he raved about this antagonizing accomplishment. He talked about how he couldn’t believe that he just climbed a mountain. Even with his fear of heights, he did it! He’d pushed passed his limitations and surprised himself with his abilities.

“Climbing is analogs to life!” He exclaimed, still on an outdoorphin rush!

“Climbing mountains is analogous to life!”

I chuckled to myself because I had the same revelation coming down from Camelback Mountain in Scottsdale, AZ.   Many a revelation are had on the side of a mountain.

“I just assumed we didn’t climb mountains,” a friend said.
We, meaning black people. Which I found funny because he breaks racial stereotypes all the time by being an avid swimmer. We being the only black Americans and dang near the only black people we’d seen in Peru all week broke the stereotype that we don’t travel. I mean, the whole group is a life-living, stereotype-breaking, adventurous group. What’s a mountain to this band of skiers, skydivers, ocean divers, gallery hoppers, campers, and international travelers? Besides, we only make up 13 percent of America’s population. That includes the elderly and children. Those of us who can climb, can’t do everything at once. There’s just not going to be significant representation in everything we do.
 
“Aren’t you proud of yourself?!” he finally asked after I was silent the whole way down. He was fun to watch all motivated and inspired. It’s fun to see people break through their limitations and do the things they didn’t know they could do.
 
I certainly was but this is not my first mountain. So perhaps the emotions were a bit different.
 
My love affair with mountains started the first time I visited Kehlsteinhaus (Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest) in Austria (elevation: 1,834 m/ 6,017 ft).  I rode a bus up that one.  I’ve climbed down the Grand Canyon and up again (7,000 ft).  That was rough and exhausting and I have no desire to ever do it again.  I canyoneered Zion Canyon (3,000 ft) and climbed parts of Mount Whitney (14,505 feet). Heck, the hike to the Hollywood sign from the Bat Caves was a struggle (1,708 feet).  Although Machu Picchu Mountain was certainly my tallest peak to climb, we only hiked 2,139 feet of it.  For reference, Camelback Mountain is 2,706 feet. I climbed all of that. With each hike, I had the same feelings of euphoria Eric was experiencing now. While the climb was challenging and the view at the top amazing, his ecstasy and sense of accomplishment was my favorite sight to see.
In the spirit of Eric’s revelation that mountain climbing is analogous to life, here are my top 10 lessons from the Mountaintop you will likely learn on the mountain that also apply to life.
 
Top 10 Lessons from the Mountaintop That Apply to Life
 


10. Perseverance is developed by persevering.
Each one of us had different times that we asked ourselves, “Why am I doing this?” Each one of us had a moment we considered turning back. No one would even blame us for turning back. But if we did, we’d miss the triumph of reaching the top.  There was nothing fun about climbing that mountain. It was dangerous. I suffered from high altitude and low oxygen. We were exhausted. But with each curve of the mountain, conquering each drop up and each cliff, we challenged our resolve. Our stamina grew. What used to be a limitation—like narrow paths on steep cliffs — was now something we’ve already conquered multiple times. The longer we journeyed up the mountain the greater our determination to master the peak grew.  Giving up develops nothing.
“I’ve learned that everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, but all
the happiness and growth occurs while you’re climbing it.”
 
 
9. Don’t compare your journey.

We all have different abilities and struggles. I was disappointed that I couldn’t keep up with the Swedish and New Zeeland duo. But what did it matter? We all rallied at the top of the mountain. There was no special prize for being able to keep up. It didn’t matter when I got there, so long as I got up there safely. So go at your own pace. Be patient with yourself and take your time. Be patient with others as well.

 
“Ain’t about how fast I get there, ain’t
about what’s waiting on the other side, it’s the climb. –Miley Cyrus
 

8. Camaraderie is forged in peril.

You will meet some of the best people while on a climb. Literally, everyone was so nice and encouraging up the mountain. We were chatting, getting to know each other. Folks sharing their food supply and passing along advice and care. A young Puerto Rican girl was doing a solo tour across South America but still regarded Puerto Rico as the most beautiful place she’d ever been (she’d never been to Kentucky). I met a young guy from Indianapolis who sandwiched the trip in between two business trips in Argentina.  I met a whole athletic German family whose mother didn’t hold back any feelings she had about American politics. Another man was a classmate at U Penn with the current star of American politics. I met two students, one from Sweden, the other from Australia, both studying abroad at a UC in SoCal, and were spending their summer break exploring the hemisphere. You’ll develop friendships and partnerships along the way with people going where you are going. No matter what your fitness level, you’re stronger together. You’re stronger when you have someone checking up on you, passing a banana or granola, and telling you you’re almost there.

 
Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity”   —John Muir, Our National Parks
 
7. No one can do it for you.
While you may have cheerleaders and coaches along the way, no one can climb the mountain for you. Mountain climbing isn’t something that can be outsourced like lawn mowing, dog walking, house cleaning, or even novel writing. If you want the view, the glory, the triumph, the growth you’re going to have to work for it.  There’s only so much friends can do for you on a mountain. Perhaps others are good for companionship, encouragement, to share with you.  All the rest is up to you. I was motivated by Langston Hughes’ Mother to Son while I climbed.

 

“The biggest adventure you can take is to live the life of your dreams.” — Oprah

 

 
6. You’ll lose some along the way.
You might not all get to the mountain top at the same time. Some may turn around. When I climbed Camelback Mountain, I met this amazing woman who was a breast cancer survivor. She talked about how she and her daughter had conquered the mountain together before her diagnosis and this was her first time back. It was one of her favorite memories with her adult child. She said she took a picture of her flexing her muscles at the top because she became her own hero. She told me of things to look out for and how I’d know I was almost at the top, but she had to turn around. She had gone as far as she could this go around. I loved talking with her.  I traveled alone for a bit before there was someone else to pick up where she left off. Hopefully, you’ll meet at the top, or coming back down, or waiting for you to return back at the base, but not everyone stays with you the whole way.

 

“It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves.” —Edmund Hillary

 

 
5. Share the knowledge to those coming after you.
Just like the Cancer Surviving mom helped me, my friends and I were able to help and encourage those still ascending while we were coming down from the peak. One friend in our group hikes the tallest peak of every state she visits. She had plenty of experience and wisdom to share on safety and best practices coming down the mountain.
 
 
 
“You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again… What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.” – Rene Daumal
 
4. Focus on the next steps in front of you—especially coming down.
 Don’t get distracted by how steep the side of the mountain is. Don’t be so busy looking at the top and how far you have left to go. Just focus on putting one foot in front of the other and keep going. Look at where you are planting your feet.  Even calculate the next few steps without getting too far ahead of yourself.  Once you are at the lower end of the mountain, people think it’s the easy part. That’s when people start moving faster and getting careless. That’s where injuries occur because you end up moving more swiftly and falling, twisting an ankle or otherwise getting hurt. Even when you miscalculate your steps, learn from it. Slow down. Brush yourself off. Hold on. And keep moving.
 
“So, boy, don’t you turn back. Don’t you set down on the steps. ‘Cause you finds it’s kinder hard.
Don’t you fall now— For I’se still goin’, honey, I’se still climbin’, And life for me ain’t been no crystal stair.” — Langston Hughes
 
3. Take care of your body.
Age is a quantifiable measurement of how long you have been alive, not an indicator of your abilities or limitations.  I almost discounted my parents as too old to do the climb until I met a 70-year-old couple celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary at the top. A guide told us the youngest person he had on the entire Inca Trail was a fearless 7-year-old girl and the oldest was 83 (also a woman). You want to be able to use your body for as long as you can, so keep it in its best working order.

 

“What are men to rocks and mountains?”  ― Jane Austen, Pride and Prejudice

 

 
2. Be prepared!
I often over-estimate my athletic abilities and underestimate the amount of water I’ll need. I did no research before attempting this climb. The lack of research might have been to my benefit since there are YouTube videos about people falling to their death on the mountain. However, knowing that this was a 90-minute vertical climb instead of a leisurely, winding curved hike probably would have been helpful. Thank goodness this southern girl could “depend on the kindness of strangers” one of which was carrying a giant bunch of bananas and wanted to get rid of the weight, and another girl had granola to spare.

 

 
“Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.” —Nemann Buhl

 

 
1. It’s so worth it!
After you’ve climbed your mountain, you’ve entered a highly exclusive community of other adventurers that understand the physical, mental, emotional, and motivating accomplishment of climbing a mountain.  I can only describe it as similar to the feeling you get when they put you on the bus after your field/basic training and all the officers salute you goodbye. Or graduating with honors and offers. Or finishing your first marathon. Or a physique competition. Or having both feet back on the ground after sky diving. That’s what it’s like.  You’ll have a renewed understanding of Miley Cyrus’ It’s the Climb.
 
“You never climb the same mountain twice, not even in memory. Memory rebuilds the mountain, changes the weather, retells the jokes, remakes all the moves.” —Lito Tejada-Flores

 

 
 
 
 
 
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July 10, 2017

Vacation In Peru: A Study In Surviving Christianity

Christianity has an incredibly violent past. No one is more aware of this than its victims and descendants of its victims. As a Christian, traveler, historian (with a degree, not just a hobby), and descendant of Christianities violence, my time in Peru helped me connect dots to similarities in Christian experiences and raised questions.

As we explored ancient Inca ruins in Peru, several tour guides discussed the violence of my faith.  By contrast, history tour guides in America (the Boston area specifically) never mention the destruction that Christianity supported. On my road trip across America, I had the opportunity to talk to three separate groups of Native Americans — Wampanoag American Natives (Plymouth, Massachusetts), Taos Pueblo Indians (New Mexico), and the Dakotah/Lakotah Tribes (more commonly known as the Sioux, in North Dakota)— and learned the American history that my undergraduate degree in the subject seemed to forget. Unless you ask the Natives, you’d be unlikely to connect the dots to how similar the stories of Christianity in the United States stories are to the stories of South America and Africa. Sure, we all know the generalities of Native ethnic cleansing. However, for the first time in my history education, no one sanitized the story.

Christianity Comes to Peru

Our guide, an Inca descendant, is a Christian but he still practices the same spirituality that his ancestors practiced thousands of years ago. He kept it real when he told the Christian history of Peru. He mentioned the brutality of Christianity multiple times. According to him, the Spaniards were not interested in learning agricultural techniques from the natives. They only wanted their silver and gold. Instead, Spaniards forced the Incas to build opulent, gold-adorned cathedrals in Cusco and along the trail to Machu Pichu. The Spanish used this method, “Just to convert us to being a Christian,” explained our guide. Thinking about it, there are no colonial cathedrals where there isn’t any gold.

When the Spaniards tried to force their God onto the Incas in 1528, the Incas/Quechuas determined they would not be worshiping someone with skin like their oppressors. So they covered a statue of the European idol with llama leather to make him look more like the people. Over time, the leather got darker due to centuries of contact with candle smoke in the Cathedral. Thus, creating the Black Jesus attraction — or at least that’s what I was told.

At the time, the people of Peru wore Sudarios, a knee-length skirt. It was a unisex clothing item as they found no purpose in wearing gender-specific clothing to publicly annotate what a person’s genitals look like—that was a European practice. The statue has a whole wardrobe of Sudarios that gets changed based on the occasion.

After conquest, the Spaniards forced the Quechua artist to learn renaissance-style paintings to paint scenes of European and Catholic values. The Spanish didn’t let the artists sign their names to their artwork. The local artists found ways to incorporate their heritage right under the nose of the colonizers without them noticing. The Incas were able to conceal symbols of their faith within the catholic tradition as well. This was best done through art. Several “Last Supper” paintings feature Jesus eating cuy (guinea pig) and drinking a local drink with potatoes on the table. Peru highlights so many intriguing Last Supper paintings. It is a wonder why Da Vinci’s is the only one that is discussed in art history, humanities, and world civ classes. The Cathedral in Cusco basically serves as a gallery of European domination and a testament to Quechua resistance.

Christianity and The Wampanoag American Native Tribe

The story of resistance amongst the Native Peruvians reminded me of the Wampanoag American Native tribe history I got to hear from a descendant of pilgrim massacre survivors. At Plymouth, Massachusettes, just a short drive from south Boston, you can visit the Pilgrim Plantation. There you’ll hear the happy fairy tales you read in sanitized history books. While touring, I listened from the sidelines to a Wampanoag woman tell a class of elementary-aged students the story. I waited on the sidelines while they asked their elementary questions. Once they moved along I started asking mine.  The Wampanoags kept the faith of their ancestors. They only pretended to convert to Christianity in order to survive. Like the Native Peruvians, they still practice the faith of their ancestors from 600 years ago.

Black Jesus in Cusco

The Cathedral had a no photo rule, but how could I just pass up my first time seeing a Black Jesus prominently displayed in a cathedral without a photo!?

Christianity reaches the Taos Indians

In Taos, New Mexico, it’s the same tale. The Taos Indians are not a nomadic tribe. They do not have a history of reservations, the Trail of Tears, or the Long Walk. They have lived in the same Pueblo buildings as their ancestors for the past 1000 years (with modern upgrades as well, like wifi). Theirs is the longest, continuously inhabited community in America. I remember when I lived in Europe and saw all the centuries-old structures, thinking America had nothing like it. Our earliest buildings had to be in Massachusetts from the 1600s which was almost modern day in comparison to Germany’s Medieval castles. Even majoring (temporarily) in architecture and history, I never knew anything about this ancient civilization, with its impressive architecture in my homeland that rivals the historical architecture of Europe.

Taos Pueblo, New Mexico
 

But the Spanish came. Enslaved them. Forced them to build a Church right beside their pueblo (remember, there are no Colonial Catholic Cathedrals where there aren’t resources). Then the Brits showed up to unleash all kinds of hell in the area. Spaniards and English folks ran around chopping each other’s heads off, blaming it on the natives, and trying to force people to speak their language and believe in their God.  The Brits tried to force their Protestantism while the Spanish forced their Catholicism. The locals just wanted to be left in peace. Both European ethnicities arrived and forbid the locals’ traditional practice & language (kinda like the Japanese in Korea). The locals pretended in order to survive but, like David in the Old Testament, strengthen their own faith during all the adversity. Today, the Taos Native Americans observe both faiths. But they lost nothing of their own.

Christianity in North America

Afro-Caribbeans also were able to maintain their African faith by intertwining Orishas with saints. Oshun easily resembles the Virgin Mary.

This brings me to the conversion of Africans in the United States. Africans in America did not pretend to accept Christ. They did so wholeheartedly and lost the spiritual traditions of their ancestors. How did this happen? My theory is, unlike the Incas, Wampanoags, and Taos, Africans in America were mixed up with other tribes who had different faiths and languages.  Oppressors separated Africans from their families and cultures. Thus, ancient traditions and practices could not be taught.  Protestantism practiced in America gave fewer opportunities to intertwine religious symbols with saints and imagery.

If history is the best indicator of future performance, then today’s Christians have a lot of overcoming. John tells us we will be able to identify Christians by their love; Matthew by their fruit. Constantly, for centuries the fruit claiming to be Christian has not been love.

Cusco

While I’ve always been aware of Christianity’s less-than-Christ-like history, it seemed emphasized more on this Peruvian trip.  The way the guides presented history —  without sugar-coating, justification, or glossing over stood out. This was the first time I’d heard colonialism described this way. Not ironically, this trip offered the first time the history of colonialism was formally taught by a descendant of a survivor — rather than a direct beneficiary.

The same history passed down from generation to generation of the treatment of natives from Plymouth to Peru never make it into history books and uncovered an interest in the subject that I never knew. I was just going on vacation to Peru for cool photos. I wasn’t expecting the history lesson and unique, new perspectives this trip provided.

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