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Oktoberfest

In Destinations, Europe, Germany on
October 13, 2012

Oktoberfest 101: Prosting With The Best Of Them

Southernbelle at the oktoberfest carnival-style fair rides.

Germans always find a reason to fest. Whether it’s cows coming home for the fall, a change of season, or a change of day — it’s a cause for celebration. When King Ludwig married Princess Theresa in October 1810, the people of Bavaria partied. And they have been celebrating their anniversary ever since. Here’s my syllabus for Oktoberfest 101—a guide to making sure you prost like a German rock star in Munich!

Oktober Fest 101: Expectation Management

I always imagined Oktoberfest to be a wild, crazy, debauchery-laden drunk-fest similar to Woodstock or Bonnaroo with an untherapeutic heaping of Mardi Gras chaos sprinkled in. But after partaking in the 202-year-old tradition, I compare it to something like The Kentucky Derby or a state fair. In fact, the original Oktoberfest included a massive horse race! Just as the Kentucky Derby is more than just a horse race, it’s a time to celebrate the change of seasons with all things Kentucky; Oktoberfest is a time to revel in all things Bavarian. 

Oktoberfest can be quite the family affair with plenty of sober activities.  For example, carnival rides, parades, live music, dancing on tables, games, and of course, excellent Southern German food!  I must say, I’m not a beer girl. All the great beer snobs of the world talk a great game about German beers versus Belgians and what have you. But honestly, and they’ll cringe when I say this, I haven’t tasted a darn beer in all of Europe that impresses me. There! I said it.

Oktober Fest 101: Lodging and Logistics

First things first — secure a place to stay! And if you’re doing an AirBnB, have a backup. You don’t want to be one of those people taking shelter on the train station floor (you’ll be in good company if you do, though). I stayed in the Holiday Inn South. It’s a great hotel with wonderful service.

I like to keep my lodging costs around €100 euro however, this is Oktoberfest and I booked last minute, so that was out of the question.  On top of that, I reserved a room through hotels.com, a sister site of Expedia.com. I ended up coming a day earlier than my reservation (I mistakenly mistyped my reservation) and because the reservation was an Expedia reservation, the hotel couldn’t change it. So, I wound up paying for two nights. Had I booked directly with the hotel, changing my Saturday reservation to Friday would have been no problem. I’m sure there were cheaper hotels in Munich. However, this Holiday Inn was right around the corner from the U-Bahn station and about seven stops from the fest.

Learning the U-Bahn system may take some time for Americans who aren’t accustomed to public transportation but the staff at the hotel can direct you to the U-3 to the fest…then follow the mass droves of people dressed like you!

Bottom line: Reserve your hotel early! You can use hotel sites to find hotels, but then book directly with the hotel. It provides more flexibility, say if your flight was cancelled or missed. Just do a little research.


 

Globelleaffairs Oktoberfest 101 Traditional attire!Oktoberfest 101: The traditional attire is a must
 

Oktober Fest 101: Packing

Ladies, you must bring or buy a traditional dirndl or lederhosen. Not a polyester-felt sexy milkmaid costume — a legit traditional alpine outfit. They can run you around €200. Because of the price, I want to make sure I get enough wear out of mine. So, I pretty much wore mine around all of Bavaria during the entire 4-day weekend. You can change the look for cheap by changing the ribbons, apron, and undershirt. This is so essential to get this right that I gave Fesch Fest Fashion its own post.

Some other articles you may want to pack are casual, traditional American jeans to wear around town during the day. A bathing suit is divine for sitting in a hotel sauna the morning after. Be sure to pack your own hangover medicine because Advil and Tylenol-like medicines are only sold in Apothekes, which are closed on Sundays.

I went with international friends, so I brought good ol’ Kentucky Bourbon as a gift to the Fins that I danced on tables with. They gave me Mintu. Gifts to facilitate cultural exchange aren’t required but a nice gesture to keep in mind.

 

 

Oktober Fest 101: Safety

Practice the buddy system. If one man goes down, you all go home. Security is really good at making sure people don’t die. So, when they see your buddy passed out at your table and you keep on dancing, they’ll send him on his way, and you get to go with him.  Folks, don’t be the one who makes your whole crew end their night early.  I’ve noticed it’s never the Germans who pass out. It’s always the newbies to Germany. And most often, from a FVEY country.

As the evening progresses and the drink consumption increases, ladies should consider all the risks that come with that atmosphere. Buddy system.

 

 

Inside the hippodrom

Partying

You’ll want table reservations directly with your party tent of choice. Table reservations can only be made in multiples of 10. You must buy beer and food vouchers in advance, which can cost 20 – 80€ per person, depending on the tent and the time. Fortunately, y Finnish friends and I got prime-time table reservations (weekend evening tables) so our reservations were pricy. You’ve got to reserve tables early…we’re talking six months or so in advance.  If you don’t make it to your table on time, your €80 per person investment may be up for grabs.

People often pick their tent based on the beer they want to drink. Since I’m not big on drinking beer, I picked it by the atmosphere.

My favorite tents were:

Löwenbräu – has a lion on top and a very fun, party atmosphere on the inside.

Hofbräu – has a chicken on top. Thousands of international revelers inside.

Hippodrome – tacky colors but hip amongst the younger crowd and best bet for singles.

I also knew one of my friends was supposed to be somewhere in Oktoberfest, but she lost her phone, and I lost contact with her. I found her, where else, but in the long women’s line for the bathroom. She was without a reservation, but she was having a blast chatting with people from all over the world anyway.

Make sure you are up on your 80’s rock lyrics. Not just the chores, the whole thing! It’s so awesome to hear citizens from all nations belt out the “Na Na Na Na” part of “Hey Jude” or rock out to “Don’t Stop Believing” by ACDC and every other ’80s rock song. It’s the Germans, especially, who know the words, lyric for lyric to every obscure ’80s song. Look up and practice the words to Ein Prosit.

Just remember that the proper response to, “Ticki-tocki, ticki-tocki” is “Oi!, Oi!, Oi!”

Dance on the tables until security chases you down.

Don’t let bad weather slow you down. It poured down rain one of the days I was there, and people were still prosting.

Oktoberfest 101: Know the tents and choose your party scene wisely
Löwenbräu Fest Tent

Last Call

Security doesn’t play. When the band stops playing, it’s time to move along. Taxi, walk, or U-bahn yourself to the DISCO (not a night club…night clubs are found in the red-light district) or back to your hotel. Notice I didn’t say drive. Do everyone some good and just follow the droves of dirndl and hosen wearers and hop yourself on a train. Oh, and do not try to “borrow” an Oktoberfest mug until the next time you come. Security will get you, and you could go to jail. Just buy one. They’re like 10 euros.

Hofbräu Tent with International Flare

 

Oktober Fest 101: Food Guide

  1. Hendl is Bavarian and Austrian for hühnchen or huhn, which is German for chicken
  2. Anything with schweine is pork. Schweinebraten (roast pork), Schweinshaxe (grilled ham hock), Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a stick)
  3. Würst- sausages (rot is red, curry is spicy, Käse is cheese, and weiß is white)
  4. Brezel- Pretzel
  5. Knödel -potato or bread dumplings
  6. Spätzle – noodles,
  7. Reiberdatschi (potato pancakes),
  8. Sauerkraut or Rotkohl/Blaukraut

 

Jim Moonier stands in a torrential down pour at Okoberfest

Don’t let bad weather slow you down. It poured down rain on one of the days I was there and people were still posting.

 

 

If you keep these tips in mind, you’ll be well prepared for your first fest. Be sure to let me know if there’s anything you’d add to this intro to Oktoberfest. 

 

 

In Destinations, Europe, Germany on
October 5, 2012

A Weekend Of Fests

It’s fall in Germany again.
Ordinarily for me, fall has a sad, foreboding feel to it. To my chagrin, the changing of the leaves are a reminder that warm, long summer days are behind me and the icy winter gloom is setting in. Fall is also the time when Central Europe’s stops their clocks for an hour and two weeks before Central USA making the time difference seven hours instead of only six which creates more challenges when I try to calling back home to my family.  It’s football season and I will be thousands of miles from any stadium-side tailgate parties.
But fall in Germany is not met with such dread.   Germany greets the change of each season with  Festivals and my aim this fest season is to immerse myself in all of them. So for Columbus Day weekend, I stayed close to home and tried out all the traditional festivals going on in my area.  The beer is flowing and the cows are coming home. So here my glorious weekend of fests in photos.
Thursday Night: Stuttgart’s Cannstatter Volksfest I kicked the weekend off in by staying in my hometown with friends at Volksfest also called Cannstatter Wasen or just Wasen because that’s the name of the fair grounds which is also where the Spring fest is held each year.  So apparently in 1815 a volcanic eruption in Indonesia led to a climatic catastrophe even in Europe causing the people of Stuttgart to stuffer a famine. Thousands died. In 1817, when they were relieved of the famine through Russian support, Katharina, King Wilhelm’s Russian wife, sponsored a harvest festival. This fest takes place annually on the King’s birthday on September, 28th in the area of the Cannstatter Wasen. Sounds very much like a Thanksgiving fest to me.
Embracing Southern Germany style in a dirndl but keeping it Southern USA by rocking the boots.
Mixture of German and American gal pals hanging out during the band’s break between sets.
There’s no chicken like fest chicken and that evaluation is coming from a Kentucky girl whose first bonafide employment was selling chicken at KFC. Yum!
Idaho Beau and I
 You know they have those stereotyped-filled saying like “I can drink like a German/Irish” but even Germans have hard times holding their alcohol. And they have the argument that letting folks drink at a younger age will teach them responsible drinking habits. Not sure if that’s true. The guy with the vests consoles his puking buddy while the guy behinds them pretends to hump them.
Cathy just arrive to Stuttgart but already had her dirndl ready to party.
Aw. Idaho Beau won a little bear for me.
The Beau, Stephanie & Me causing trouble.
Contrary to popular American belief, Volksfests are more than just drinking. They actually provide a fun family atmosphere with children’s games as well.  It’s comparable to a county fair.
Friday Night: Munich’s Oktoberfest
Oktoberfest began as a celebration of the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig to Princess Theresa on October 12, 1810.  Folks have been celebrating their anniversary ever since. The fair grounds are called Theresienwiese although locals have shortened it to Wiesen, juts like in Stuttgart.
The ride to Munich was a stau (traffic Jam) nightmare! Everyone is on their way to the big Fest.
Made it!
 I went up to the upper level of the tent to get a photo of the party from above and was basically adopted/kidnapped by these old Bavarian men. They called me a little Schwabish girl from Stuttgart.  They also snorted flavored tobacco up their noses and said all Bavarian men do it.  They left their wives at home in the kitchen to have a boys night they told me.
  During the day I tested my skills.
 Ladies in the Finnish army with their apple strudel. Yum!
 Inside the international tent.
 This is the flirty, young tent.
 My friend Harri from Finland and I getting our grub on before dancing on the tables.
Kartoffeln! AKA Potatos fest style. Simply delish.
 Don’t stop believin’! Country Roads take me home —the Europeans know every word!
  One drink per hour. Slow and steady does it. People will continue to party around you while you almost die. Then the Polizi will make your friends take you home. You will end the night early for everyone. Do not be that guy!
 The next day at the fest poured down rain! It stopped no one.
 Everyone just kept the parties in-doors.
Gotta get a fest gingerbread heart.
 Munich by the way is a beautiful, fun active city. After the fest, go out on the town for a night on the tiles.
Saturday: Almabtriebfest in Mayrhofen, Austria
From Munich I journeyed about a hour and a half south to a charming little mountain town in Austria. Fests like these go on most of September and into early October in one little alpine village or another. It’s a cattle drive bringing the cows down from grazing in the alps back to their pastures before it gets cold. It’s great Bavarian cultural fun and a nice outdoor outing with family or friends. I blog more about this special Alpine adventure in my post, “Partying til the Cows Come Home.”
It’s quite the sight to see, a parade of cows clanging their giant bells.
In a restaurant in Fussen on the way back to Munich from Mayrhofen. The food was glorious!
All of these pieces of flare were removed from the cows so they could rest after their long trek down from the mountains.
Putin Schnitzel…Schnitzel made from turkey.
This was these calves first fest. I think they did quite well for a first parade.
Only females journey down together.
This cow had to be seriously dehydrated. Another cow came along and she mooed her away from the water.  either that or she is just mean and wasn’t really drinking for for 20 minutes straight but was just trying to keep the other cow from having any.
This place was absolutely breath taking. I really just have not other words to describe being in the Alps. I don’t know how Maria had the lungs to sing in the Alps.
Sunday: Ludwigsburg Annual Pumpkin Fest
I never knew so many varieties of pumpkins existed! Over 400! Last year, giant dinosaur sculptures made of pumpkins graced the gardens of Ludwigsburg palace. This year the theme is Switzerland. Like all fests in Germany, it’s not complete without divine food. Pumpkin soup, pumpkin bread, pumpkin seeds… you get the idea.  Ludwigsburg also hosted a Venice fest which happens once every two years. Which I missed this year. boo!
A dress of Queen Elizabeth (Sisi) of Austria who was King Ludwig’s favorite cousin.
 A horn blower and the Swiss flag made of pumpkins
 Rows of different types of Kurbis (the German word for pumpkins).
 They host a pumpkin shell boating race!
 Germans can do some beautiful work with wood so it doesn’t surprise me that the same care is done when sculpting a pumpkin.
Again, the Swiss horn blower made of pumpkins
The palace grounds are breath taking year round put especially early fall.
So there you have it. Volksfest, Oktoberfest, Pumpkin fest and a Cattle drive all in one wonderful weekend.